Peru: Sian

I spent 2 fabulous weeks exploring the many highlights that Peru has to offer, and it certainly lived up to my high expectations. The colour and culture is evident everywhere, and the diversity of scenery amazed me. We traveled from the Amazon jungle, to the unique and fertile Highlands of the Sacred Valley, before travelling to Lake Titicaca, the Colca Canyon & finishing in the charming desert city of Arequipa. Below are some of my highlights.

Sacred Valley of the incas

The Sacred Valley of the Incas was a highlight for me! Accompanied by amazing scenery, the region really shows off the culture and history that makes Peru so unique. We flew into Cusco, but to help acclimatise to the high altitude we went straight to the sacred valley to spend the following 2 nights at the stunning Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba. We spent a full day sightseeing which included colourful Pisac market and the village of Mismanay where Condor Travel are supporting the local community through education and work opportunities. They provided us with a delicious lunch and we donated some items to their village from Australia.

I love how authentic Peru still is; especially in the Sacred Valley where the distinct colourful clothing is very much part of their culture & not something put on just for tourists enjoyment. This is what really stood out for me - colour and culture in spades!

Insider tip - Altitude and altitude sickness is often a concern for travelers visiting Peru, but there is tablets you can take to reduce the likelihood of developing symptoms. I always recommend avoiding alcohol whilst at high altitude and take some hydralyte sachets with you to put in your water bottle every day. They’re lightweight to pack & works a treat!

machu picchu & cuzco

Unsurprisingly the Unesco listed ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu was a huge highlight for me, and exceeded my very high expectations! There is a very popular 4 day Inca trek which you can do to travel to Machu Picchu, but our group took the quicker option of the Vistadome train. Our day started early by catching the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientas, which is the main town at the base of Machu Picchu. This was a really comfortable service as we traveled alongside the river with some enjoyable scenery in full view from the expansive dome windows. The excitement grew as we then jumped on the bus from Aguas Calyantes; winding up the mountain until we reached the entrance gates to Machu Picchu. The location is really beautiful, surrounded by lush mountains, which adds to the awe-inspiring ancient Inca city. The way that it was built without the use of mortar, metal tools, or the wheel, makes Machu Picchu an engineering marvel. We spent the morning exploring with our guide before heading on to Cuzco in the afternoon, but we definitely recommend staying overnight at Aguas Calyantes & returning to Machu Picchu at sunrise to really maximise your experience.

The Peruvian government are now capping the number of daily visitors to protect the ancient site.

From Machu Picchu our final stop in the Sacred Valley was the charming city of Cuzco. Cuzco is actually South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city! The city itself is much larger than I expected, but the historic centre is lovely - with charming streets and atmospheric colonial buildings framed by the dramatic Ande’s mountains.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) - You can’t go to Peru without consuming their famous pisco sour cocktails! We did a pisco sour making course in Cuzco which was a lot of fun. Favourite meal was definitely Peruvian fish ceviche. Yum!

arequipa

Arequipa was a surprise highlight for me! The charming city centre is Unesco World Heritage listed and has beautiful baroque buildings made from sillar stone (white volcanic rock), which is what gives the city its nickname ‘White City’. Arequipa is surrounded by 3 volcanoes, the largest of which is El Misti making for a dramatic backdrop to the pretty city. I loved wandering the streets in the pedestrian-only centre, and visiting Santa Catalina Monastery. Not only the monastery a photographers dream with its brightly painted buildings, but it’s arguably one of the most fascinating religious buildings in Peru. Built in 1579, it served as a cloister for Dominican nuns from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries, and still houses a small religious community today. I loved getting lost in the brightly coloured streets that link the 3 cloisters.

Insider tip - When shopping for souvenirs; Silver is cheaper in the Sacred Valley/Cusco whilst baby alpaca is cheaper and better quality in Arequipa so you can plan your souvenir shopping accordingly. Also I found the quality & variety better at Aguas Calyentas Market compared with Pisac Market.

Fun fact - Guinea Pig is a delicacy in Peru and they eat it on special occasions such as birthdays. We did give it a try but I found it tricky to eat because there are so many bones. The high altitude provides excellent conditions for growing produce - Peru grows 3,500 varieties of potato and 55 varieties of corn which comes in all colours including yellow, purple, white, and even blue!

Africa: Hugh

Ngorongoro Crater - Tanzania

This collection of photos were shot the morning we descended to the crater floor of Ngorongoro. Up early to catch the first light of day, all disgruntled thoughts about being shaken out of bed quickly dissipated the moment we saw the lions returning home from the hunt & the clouds rolling over the surrounding mountainsides. We weren’t the only people here by any stretch of the imagination but the floor of the crater is massive and it’s very easy to get a little corner seemingly to yourself.

You really get a sense of this being the literal birthplace of humankind (just west of the Crater are the 3.6 million year old Laetoli footprints.) And no time of the day enhances this otherworldly feeling than the very early am.

Okavango Delta - Botswana

Well I could easily fill a whole blog post with pictures and memories from our time in the Delta - one of the best experiences of my life. We were fortunate enough to be based at the incomparable Kadizora Camp; situated in a remote corner of the Northern Okavango, our time here was unforgettable. At such an intimate camp, the wildlife is around every corner (and often found crossing your path on the walk back to tent after sundown.) Both experiences on the water, on a boat and also traditional Mokoro canoe, were highlights. Seeing elephants bathing at dusk, hearing hippos mating in the surrounding bushes and crocodiles slipping in to the water on your approach…amazing!

South Luangwa - Zambia

This was an unexpected delight for me - with zero expectation of what Zambia had to offer, lets just say it blew me away. We were based right on the river side, so our evenings were spent revelling in the sound of numerous (and vocal) hippos gearing up for their night as well as elephants casually walking through camp.

Relatively untouched by mass tourism, you get to revel in a sense of true wilderness here. And also have the opportunity to venture out on a walking safari…which I haven’t been able to partake in anywhere else and have been assured (despite the ever present hyenas) that its perfectly safe to do…memorable at least!

Of all of the wonderful experiences here, I must be honest and say that I didn’t love the night safari (another uncommon thing to do), from the minute we spotted the leopard. Up until that moment it was a thoroughly enjoyable and very unique way to see the wildlife as they geared up to hunt (something you can’t really do in many other parts of Africa, where come sundown it’s back to camp.) Due to the obvious excitement that comes hand in hand with witnessing this rather elusive big cat, came a certain level of (I felt) intrusive spotlight & vehicle action as the poor (injured) leopard tried to evade a pack of lions on the prowl.

Cape Town - South Africa

What a city! Of course, one of the standout experiences was a trip up Table Mountain (note to self, not the most confident when it comes to cable cars - particularly of the revolving kind!! Next time I might opt for the hiking alternative.)

A day out at Robben Island, notorious as the gaol housing Nelson Mandela during apartheid as well as a visit to the District Six Museum, which commemorates the forced movement of 60,000 inhabitants of various races in District Six - were enlightening experiences.

We stayed down on the V&A waterfront which would definitely be recommended. Such a refreshing change to be able to safely get out and explore on foot with no rogue wildlife to be concerned about (except the cute Rock Hyrax/Dassie - much like our Quokka - that inhabit Table Mountain.) We were amazed at the great value fine dining on offer here, and lovely drinking spots by the waterfront.

India: Hugh

Where am I – Rajasthan, India

We spent an extraordinary two weeks travelling around Rajasthan - from Delhi and Agra, to a tiger safari at Ranthambore. A highlight stay in a 16th-century fort surrounded by sand dunes (Khimsar), romantic Udaipur and the iconic cities of Jaipur & Jodphur. We even trekked out to the former medieval trading centre of Jaisalmer, a long day of driving there and back but so worth the experience of this golden citadel in the dunes.

We did this trip independently, with the delightful company of our private driver throughout and local guides at every stop along the way - booked with our longstanding Indian experts and collaborators; Trailblazer TBI.

Highlight - So hard to pinpoint just one, so I’ll narrow it down to three! First up would just have to be our time spent at the Taj Mahal, it’s iconic for a reason. First glimpsed by us from the Mehtab Bagh gardens, directly across the hazy Yamuna River, I was (pleasantly) surprised at how serene and otherworldly the 17th century mausoleum complex feels - despite being very familiar with it from countless photos, books and clients that I have sent there over the years. Finding a quiet spot (not as hard as you would imagine) and just taking it in was a real treat. We took sunset drinks from a shabby local rooftop bar, the Saniya Palace, which had an unforgettable view out across the rooftops of the old town towards the minarets and dome in the near distance. This sticks in my mind all these years later as an unforgettable moment - watching the sun go down and the monkeys scamper across the roofs as the call to prayer echoed all around (nb. they didn’t stock alcohol but were only too happy to dash down and find some refreshing cold beers from somewhere on request.)

Side note; almost as impressive as the Taj (and much less visited) is the so-called ‘Baby Taj’ (Itmad-ud-Daula.) Also situated on the banks of the Yamuna, just 10mins away, this mausoleum was constructed a few years before the Taj itself and is a perfect jewel box of arabesque design.

My next highlight would be the afternoon we spent rambling around the incredible Amer Fort (30mins from Jaipur.) It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site of absolute wonder that brought out the child in me - I loved the rambling ramparts and the sheer overwhelming size of the hilltop fort, perfectly complimented by ornate interiors and gorgeous courtyards and gardens. The history of this residence of the Rajput Maharajas is so intriguing, and I just could not get enough of the complicated tales of their lives (particularly the women) spent behind these walls. Speaking of walls, the Jaipur Wall which criss crosses over the surrounding Aravalli hilltops brought to mind a strong comparison to the Great Wall of China - and was yet another thing to love about our time here.

And of course, as anyone who has spoken to me about India will know, I loved every minute spent in lakeside Udaipur. From our wonderfully atmospheric hotel on the shore of the lake itself, the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel (definitely recommend a room with a view & dinner on the rooftop to make the most of it’s picturesque location.) To the mighty and impressive City Palace, which conveniently looms large just behind the Jagat Niwas. It’s also a great city for getting out on foot and strolling around the interesting streets filled with boutiques stocking local art, and surprising little temples that crop up at every corner. Nb. the ability to walk independently without being hassled is a rarity in this part of India so it was a pleasant change of pace to be able to get out and explore ourselves.

I also snuck in a couple of hotel inspections here, one of which was to the Taj Lake Palace (perhaps best known these days as the secluded lair of Octopussy, from the 1983 Bond film shot here - more on that to follow.) The moment you step off the hotels private boat as you arrive you are struck by the tranquillity (and beauty) of this gorgeous property, certainly a unique and unforgettable place to stay.

We had a lovely boat trip on Pichola Lake, stopping off at Jagmandir island (home to a 17th century palace) and one evening we dropped in at a funny little bar that was advertising Octopussy showings…we were the only patrons that night but they happily obliged, projecting the movie on to a big screen in the middle of an empty bar, while the family took their evening meal with us.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – We stuck to a veggie diet for the duration and that worked well for us; I never got over the variety of dishes (we even had a “McPaneer” - not a culinary highlight but when in… ‘Rome.’) One of my favourites meals was actually at a rather uninspiring hotel in Agra, Who would have thought?! Any opportunity we could get a meal outside or on a rooftop we of course jumped at. When staying at the atmospheric Khimsar Fort Hotel we were lucky enough to have the walls of the fort all to ourselves as the sun went down and we had a couple of “Kingfisher” beers pre dinner in one of the corner turrets.

Lost in translation moment – Well of course this happened most days! You don’t travel to India to feel like you’re back at home. We had the fabulous assistance of our driver and local guides who were always available to field any queries and iron out any kinks. Not that we encountered anything too dramatic. In fact, I’d say on the whole the entire trip was less confronting & challenging than I had perhaps prepared myself for.

My partner and I usually got mistaken for brothers which was a laugh for us. And tattoos are obviously a bit of an oddity in India as everywhere we went we were swamped by friendly photo requests. I don’t know how many families have a lovely smiling collection of pictures of us, but it would be a lot!

Insider tip – Pack a pair of old socks and have these with you on days when visiting temples and the like, as you’ll be asked to take off your shoes. You’ll need some loose change handy to pay the person looking after the shoes and most monuments etc will charge a nominal amount for a photo fee, so have that ready to go as well.

We did a safari at Ranthambore National Park, on the lookout for the elusive tiger (which we did not spot.) I’d go with reasonable expectations, particularly for those clients that have had the good fortune to visit Africa beforehand, as it’s a very different experience. We had a great time bumping around in an open topped jitney vehicle, trying to spot wildlife and on the prowl of course for a glimpse of one of the big cats. A lot of the fun was in the searching and we weren’t too disappointed not to be lucky enough this time around. An unexpected high here was the Ranthambore Fort in the middle of the NP, this made the day and was like something straight out of the pages of the Jungle Book.

Fun fact – When in Jaipur we would highly recommend an evening at the Raj Mandir movie house, the opulent art moderne theatre is a symbol of the city. We splurged on some (inexpensive) premium seats up in the royal circle; during intermission we had access to a cute little bar area. Great fun watching a Bollywood blockbuster with the huge crowd that shouts and sings along for the entirety.

Tasmania: Hugh

Just before the borders closed and the world went in to covid19 lockdown, I was fortunate enough to spend a long weekend with friends in Tasmania. Exploring Hobart is always fun; we stocked up on local goodies at the Salamanca Markets, enjoyed a gastropub lunch at Tom McHugo's and savoured some delicious dinners at Susie Luck’s (Southeast Asian with a twist) and Pancho Villa (Mexican.)

Hobart gives Melbourne a run for top brunch contender with the likes of Pigeon Hole and the quirky Machine Laundry Cafe. We also sampled a few drinks at Preachers bar, Shambles brewery, the Winston…and In The Hanging Garden; a sprawling ‘cultural’ centre with a massive open air bar at its core.

And of course, to top it off we also spent time at the one of a kind (and sometimes downright bonkers) MONA Museum of New and Old Art - reached by leisurely boat ride along the Derwent.

Three Capes Track

The real reason for our visit - with Hobart as a pleasant bookend - was to venture forth on a multi day hike through the Tasmanian wilderness, embarking on the Three Capes Track; 48 kilometres of cliff-hugging wildness in Australia's far south-east.

I just cannot recommend this experience enough! It packs a scenic punch, offers plenty of solitary moments for quiet contemplation, is a sufficient challenge to be rewarding but remains manageable enough for most levels of fitness. The trail is limited to a max of 48 walkers per day, so you get to know your travelling companions but never feel on top of one another. Oftentimes we had the path to ourselves for hours on end without coming across anyone other than the wildlife.

Even though we undertook the walk during the height of summer, sunshine and clear skies were not guaranteed. Either side of our four days they had endured some unseasonably bad rain yet fortunately (for us) the weather gods were smiling down and we had perfect conditions. Would definitely recommend for the best chance of getting similar weather that this walk be undertaken during the peak months of December through April.

The track itself is maintained to such a high degree that you just could not improve upon anything. Along the way the trail masterminds have created 40 story seats which give a fascinating insight into the diverse flora, fauna and turbulent local history.

And the cabin facilities, basecamp for each night, have been sensitively designed to leave an eco friendly footprint with maximum comfort and all of the modcons you could need; including fabulous kitchen and shared living areas that highlight the surrounding landscape, intimate bunk rooms, and even at one of the cabins a hot shower!

We chose to ‘rough it’ by doing the walk independently, with cabin accommodation at three sites along the way. This does mean carrying your own supplies; all-weather appropriate clothing, meals and snacks to survive for the four days. It’s also possible, for those that crave a few creature comforts (and don’t fancy lugging around their worldly possessions!) to do the walk with upgraded lodge accommodation. This also means that three course evening meals are prepared for you…which sometimes would have been rather nice I won’t lie!

You begin and end your Three Capes adventure at the World Heritage listed Port Arthur convict settlement. This was my first time visiting the compelling site, witness to some major historical and more recent tragic events that have helped shape the spirit of our nation. Entry is included with your track passes and I’d certainly recommend arriving early to spend some time here.

Hawaii: Sian

Where am I – Island hopping in Hawaii

Kauai – known as the garden of Eden island and for good reason. We absolutely loved our time on Kauai for its natural beauty, laid-back vibe and extremely friendly locals. A perfect place to hire a car and explore the natural wonder of Waimea Canyon – known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.

Maui – One of the most popular islands in Hawaii, and for good reason. We hired a car and loved driving the road to Hana, known as one of the top scenic drives in the world. Next time we visit we’ll try and tear ourselves out of bed at 2am to watch sunrise at the top of Haleakala volcano. The historic town of Lahaina was great for gift shopping and dining. The rooftop bar/restaurant at Fleetwood’s on Front Street in Lahaiana was really enjoyable for a leisurely lunch or happy hour.

Waikiki – Busy, buzzy Waikiki was a perfect place to finish the holiday for retail therapy and fine dining restaurant options. I enjoyed staying at The Modern Honolulu which was just far enough from busy Waikiki Beach to be relaxing, but close enough that we could walk to restaurants for dinner. We visited Pearl Harbour for our history fix and shopped up a storm at Waikele factory outlets!

Highlight – A helicopter flight in Kauai

90% of the island is inaccessible by car so this was an amazing way to get a bird’s eye view of the beauty of the island and especially the famous Na Pali Coast.

Fav meal – A lot it turns out!

Our favourite fine dining experience was at Senia Restaurant in China Town Honolulu. Their Charred Cabbage signature dish was divine! Highly recommended, as well as The Pig & the Lady Vietnamese restaurant next door.

For food trucks: the fresh banana bread we picked up on the road to Hana drive that was still warm. Acai bowls were always delicious with fresh fruit. We also loved The Fresh Shave shaved ice which was refreshing and packed with delicious flavours – ‘the Chevron’ coconut & lime was my favourite.

Insider tip – There’s a 1 mile trail at Kalalau Lookout (behind the fence on the left when looking out to the ocean) which gives you amazing views down the Na Pali Coast. When sightseeing on Kauai, always head off early in the morning because the clouds start to close-in and rain falls around lunchtime onwards. It can’t be the lush beautiful island that it is without all of the rainfall it receives!!

Fun fact – No building on Kauai can be taller than a palm tree by law.

Greece: Hugh

Where am I – Greek Island hopping!

Starting off with a few nights in surprisingly captivating Athens. True that it’s suffered from the effects of economic and social trouble over the last few years. But we found the city lively, diverse and literally jam packed with fascinating sights around every corner. Not to mention the food!!

We then headed south to Santorini (just as jaw dropping as the photos imply!) Charming Paros. And buzzing Mykonos. All three islands offered something completely different and only gave us more of a desire to head back as soon as possible to check out some of the others!

Destination – Greece

Duration – Two weeks

Suitable for – Absolutely anyone & everyone. Particularly great for couples / honeymooners.

Highlight – Paros all the way. Such a laidback alternative to its bigger, busier neighbours. By day we used the local bus to get around and visit ancient inland villages and out of the way beaches. And at night we ventured out on foot to stroll around the old towns of Parikia and Naoussa; bursting with cute wine bars, traditional Greek restaurants and boutique stores. Atmosphere plus plus plus.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – Must line up and try the Kalamata Pita from Kostas (Athens.) Cheap, cheerful and delish! For a sunset dinner in Santorini try any restaurant in Imerovigli (the best spot on the island to see the sun go down.) We had a very special dinner at La Maison there. And Lola Bar in Mykonos was a lot of fun for a good night out (half the fun was finding it!)

Lost in translation moment – Trying to get on and off the Greek ferries. It is manic and disorganized chaos and you can only give up and go with the flow! Essential to have someone meet you at the pier rather than wait forever and a day for a taxi. A lesson learned the hard way.

Insider tip – If you feel up for a wander, do try the Caldera hike from Fira to Oia (2-5hrs.) A rewarding experience with some incomparable views of the island. Definitely best accomplished first thing in the morning. Grab a well earned bite to eat when you get to Oia, then take the bus back!

Just off the coast of Mykonos, renowned for its nonstop party vibe, you’ll find the island of Delos. This sprawling archaeological site is the mythological birthplace of Apollo and offers hours and hours of easy (and fascinating) rambling opportunities amongst the ruins. The famous lions on display are replicas, head inside the museum to see the originals (from 600BCE.)

Fun fact –Inhabited for over 4,000 years, Athens has operated under every known form of government; monarchy, democracy, socialism, capitalism, even communism.

India: Sian

Where am I: Exotic India
Exploring the chaos and colour of this amazing country whilst being impeccably hosted by Oberoi Hotels and Trail Blazer India.

From the bustling city of Delhi where we explored Old Delhi by Rickshaw, we then caught the train to Agra to see the highlight Taj Mahal. The train was a really local experience as you see so much life at the station – it’s busy, hot, sometimes a tad confronting but I loved it. We then continued to the Pink City of Jaipur where we explored the fairytale grandeur of the Amber Fort & Jaipur’s most-distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal which was constructed in 1799 to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city below.

Our final stop was the very cosmopolitan city of Mumbai where the disparity of wealth was extremely evident; the most expensive residential building in the world is right next to the slums. Mumbai was a bit of a surprise for me and I really enjoyed it.

Highlight – The Taj Mahal has always been on my bucket list and it didn’t disappoint. Staying at the Oberoi Amarvilas Agra which has views of the Taj Mahal from each room made the experience even more special! A couple of surprise highlights were visiting Chand Baori, an ancient stepwell, and taking a tour of the slums in Mumbai.

Fav meal – So many delicious vegetarian curries and I especially loved all of the Naan & Roti breads. Delicious!

Lost in translation moment – certainly a lot of eye-opening moments involving very blasé public toileting.

Insider tip – A sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal is a must! When the temperature is cooler and tourist numbers are much lower, you almost have the place to yourself and should manage to take the odd photo without anyone else in it.

Fun fact – India is the only country with a bill of rights for cows. Cows are believed to be holy in Hinduism, and the Constitution has a set of rules in place that prevents the sale and slaughter of cows. They’re everywhere in India!

Croatia: Hugh

Where am I – Unforgettable Croatia. Checking out the vibrant towns of Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. As well as the stunning UNESCO listed Plitvice Lakes National Park. And a week spent sailing around and exploring in depth the islands of Vis, Brac, Hvar & Korcula. Every day was just sublime!

Highlight – The atmospheric town of Stari Grad, Hvar. Complete perfection! Full of picturesque winding alleyways, friendly locals & laidback konoba (Croatian taverna.) All wrapped up on an idyllic little harbour far from the madding crowds of Hvar, Split et al.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – Favourite meal would have to be a particularly great Bosnian feast in Dubrovnik at the oddly titled ‘Taj Mahal.’ Runner up would be all the great seafood enjoyed basically everywhere!

We spent many an afternoon sampling some great craft brews. As well as a fair few of the two biggest local beer producers Karlovačko & Ožjusko.

Lost in translation moment – Basically every time we ordered a drink / meal! The service standards are a little different than back home and you’ll frequently find yourself crying out for some attention. They’re not particularly attentive but we quickly discovered the benefit of this; nobody is ever rushing you to finish up and move on, so you’ll have plenty of time to kick back and enjoy watching the world go by.

Insider tip – Be sure to hang out under the Lotrščak Tower in Zagreb at midday. And be ready for a surprise! Climbing up the Bell Tower in the heart of the old town of Split is highly recommended but I would get there first thing to beat the crowds and the heat of the day. And pack some water appropriate footwear as there are a lot of sea urchins hanging around in all the popular swimming spots!

Fun fact – Zlatni Rat is the most famous of all the Croatian beaches. Though it’s known as the ‘Golden Horn’ it’s actually constantly changing shape due to winds, waves and sea currents.

Crystal Crusing Alaska: Ceri

CRYSTAL CRUISE – aboard Crystal Symphony. Tastefully decorated the ship has been kept in perfect order, the overall feel of the ship is timeless elegance without there being too much ‘bling’. Many of the crew had been with the ship since its inaugural sailing and now boasts 3 generations of the same family working on board together. Crew ranged from all nationalities but mainly European and South American. Exceptionally friendly feel to passengers and crew. One elderly lady on her 110th cruise with Crystal!!

Exceptional restaurant outlets – main dining room is the Waterside restaurant which boasts exceptional service with advice given on choices. Sommelier attended each table for advice on wines being served each night. Marketplace buffet restaurant on the 11th floor my pick for breakfast each day with stunning views. The Bistro – deck 6 coffee and cake and a whole lot more open all day for drinks and self serve snacks. Trident Grill open all day for snacks ie hamburgers, chips adjacent to Silk on the Lido deck 11

Speciality restaurants - Silk offering Asian influenced cuisine (my least favourite as felt it was Asian with an American twist) Prego (Italian /Mediterranean influenced) signature mushroom soup served in a bread basket. Churrascaria, this is the marketplace restaurant where at night a buffet with South American influences and fish and meat cooked on skewers and served at each table. Umi Uma amazing Japanese restaurant, most delicious and varied menu. Their Black Skinned Cod signature dish divine!! **On a 7 night cruise guests can enjoy two visits to these restaurants subsequent visits are charged at USD30.00 per person

4 sea days (2 consecutive) passed easily with plenty of onboard activities, interesting lectures, spa activities such as ladies pamper party, movies, Golf lessons, Bridge, Jewellery making classes, Bingo...in fact something for everyone!

JUNEAU– Alaska’s capital city. Established in the Gold Rush the town still resembles this, offering a blend of past and present with narrow streets and wooden buildings. Easily explored on your own. The current Salmon Fishing industry is apparent and arguably the best of Alaska seafood can be enjoyed here. Main street an easy walk with plenty of restaurants and bars to visit for a true Alaskan experience. A new boutique Brewery offers local brew but limits the amount you are able to purchase to 3 drinks per person. Easy walk into centre of town, where it’s easy to book onto a Hop on Hop off Bus for transport around the town with stops at Mendenhall Glacier, and the Salmon Fisheries two highlights not to be missed ( approx. USD50.00 incl National Park entry fee) Good walking track to the Glacier taking approx. 30 minutes

Not to be missed a visit to the Red Dog Saloon and Tracy’s Crab Shack both founded during the Gold Rush and not much has changed since then.

A pre-paid shore excursion I would recommend from here is a visit from here to a Musher Camp – which requires a helicopter ride onto the Glacier. Only here, can you experience an authentic Dog Sledding Camp

SKAGWAY – home of the White Pass scenic Railway. Another Gold Rush Town. Quaint and the historical centre well worth a wander through. The ship docks in town and it’s an easy walk to visit this on your own. Skagway is the home to the oldest brothel in Alaska, museum tours are held here each day. I elected to take the Ship excursion here, Sawtooth Mountain Rainforest Hike, operated by Packer expeditions. Excellent guides who were quite alternative in their approach. Very caring of all abilities within the group. We were met at the port and walked through town to the famous White Pass Railway train where we travelled just two stops (10 minutes) before commencing our hike. The hike of around 3 hours was through beautiful rainforest alongside a fast flowing river - not a loop track but still really enjoyable - water and snacks handed out twice by the guides during the course of the walk which was much appreciated!

GLACIER BAY & HUBARD GLACIER - two consecutive days at sea with the most incredible Glacier sightseeing I’ve experienced. Glacier Bay; sailed into the bay at around 8am and left around 1230 stunning must see inclusion for any Alaska travel. Margerie glacier stunning and still reaching the water where most others have retracted to the point where they no longer reach sea level. Parks and wildlife ranger on board for full commentary. The weather was perfect cold but clear sunny skies – the number of cruise ships allowed in Hubbard Glacier is limited and has to be accompanied by a Ranger. Arrived at Hubbard Glacier at around 11 and stayed in really close proximity until we left at around 1pm amazing!!!!!!! The best yet with the loud crack as some of the glacier cracked away and fell into the sea causing waves and movement of the ice packs that filled the immediate area.

SITKA – ‘Paris of the Pacific’ (formally known) This was easily my favourite Alaskan town – it felt genuine with a real year round population living here – pretty setting with a wonderful natural harbour too small for the cruise ships to dock at. Originally settled by the Russian’s, many of the quaint shops still stock Babushka Dolls and Russian Christmas memorabilia. There is a Russian Orthodox church in the centre of town now also a museum open to the public. The Sitka City tour shore excursion was everyone’s favourite therefore recommended for a good overview and history of the Town

KETCHIKAN – Salmon Capital of the world. When we docked in Ketchikan four other Cruise ships were already in port – the foreshore promenade was a mass of passengers joining their pre-booked shore excursions. Ketchikan is another destination easily explored on your own. Though we didn’t catch sight of any bears here we did see many eagles. I thoroughly enjoyed my self guided walk along the Ketchikan Boardwalk and visited all the buildings now predominantly souvenir shops, took the funicular to the Cape Fox Lodge – a hotel overlooking town, and walked back to the ship after covering the majority of hilly Ketchikan. There is a complementary shuttle bus running on a regular basis from all the tourist spots in town back to the wharf.

PRINCE RUPERT – here I elected to take another organised hike of the Butze Trail, a walk that could easily tackled on your own though the guide provided an interesting insight into the local indigenous population of the Tsimshian Tribe the original settlers of the area. Two ladies on the ship took a taxi from the wharf and then joined us on the hike – a very cost effective way of doing this CAD15.00 each way -rather than paying for the shore excursion. We gave way to being on Bear lookout here, for potentially seeing wolves!

VICTORIA – Vancouver Island. Our last port of call and a destination that has always been on my wish list. I chose to make an independent visit to Butchart Gardens sharing a taxi from the port a journey of approx. 40 minutes at a cost of CAD50.00 – shared by 3 this was a reasonable way to travel to the gardens. Entry to the gardens CAD32.00 – we spent 2 hours here, and this was the minimal time frame – ideally a 3 hour visit should be recommended. Stunning display of flowers and a comparable love story to the Taj Mahal this was built from an old gravel quarry – the before and after photos were really interesting.

Following the gardens we had coffee at the Empress Hotel then spent the afternoon walking along the promenade and exploring the retail outlets in the shopping mall near the harbour. I returned to the port on the wrong shuttle and was taken to the Carnival ship! Crystal shuttle was complimentary I paid CAD 10.00 whoops!

ALASKA lived up to expectations, certainly for scenery and Glacier viewing. The only guaranteed way to see the much promised Black and Brown Bears is to take a flight sightseeing tour, recommended and offered as an excursion from the cruise. Whales and Dolphins followed the ship and were seen in abundance. Otters were only seen in the Vancouver Aquarium. Bald Headed Eagles were seen in most of the destinations.

August was an excellent time to visit as the rivers were bursting with Salmon returning upstream to spawn. Apparently, a month later, there are many dead Salmon floating in the rivers offering more Bear viewing opportunities as they come to fish for these. Good destination for families as plenty of First Nation history together with possible wildlife experiences unique to this part of Canada and Alaska.

Scenic Europe River Cruise: Hugh

BUDAPEST CITY STAY

I spent a couple of days before I joined the cruise exploring this fabulous city. It’s easily and safely traversed on foot, bike or on one of the oldest metro systems in the world. And there is a lot to take in! From it’s humble 4th century origins as an area contested by various tribes on the banks of the Danube to it’s more recent (and undeniably turbulent) 20th century history. It now sits proudly - Buda and Pest united - to form this magnificent ‘Paris of the East.’

I particularly enjoyed walking along the banks of the river where you will come across the ‘Shoes on the Danube Bank’ memorial, a particularly poignant reflection on a tragic moment of the cities Jewish past. It is sited near to the gothic splendour of the Hungarian parliament building, perhaps one of the most photogenic buildings in the world!

As horrifying as it sounds, the ‘House of Terror’ museum was a real highlight for me. The thoughtful and sometimes harrowing exhibits that deal with the fascist and communist past of Budapest are located within a building which at one time housed the secret service of both those regimes. It is also a very beautiful memorial to the people who were incarcerated here.

To get some perspective (and a spot of fresh air) I’d recommend a hike up Gellért Hill, which dominates the city skyline and offers a welcome green respite from the bustle of the city streets.

And a visit to Budapest absolutely must take in one of the many bath complexes, elaborate temples to health and wellbeing that straddle a patchwork of almost 125 thermal springs. I spent time at the sublime Szechenyi Thermal Baths, the largest medicinal bath in Europe and a meeting spot for what felt like half the city!!

RIVER CRUISE BUDAPEST TO MUNICH

The Scenic Pearl was docked at an enviable position - right across the river from the parliament building. An absolutely unbeatable spot for our first evening, spent lapping up the view over a leisurely and extravagant dinner, the first of many!

The ship boasts a modern, chic fitout (grey palette, lots of stainless steel and glass.) With only 159 passengers onboard (and a staff of 59) it never feels crowded and on day one the service is attentive and personalised without being over the top. Most time is spent divided between the sundeck, the crystal dining room and of course the panorama lounge (where we worked our way through all of the cocktails on the extensive menu.) Not much time was spent in the suite itself though it was spacious enough to while away a few hours on the private outdoor balcony - summoning snacks and drinks to the room courtesy of our ever courteous butler.

Cruise highlights for me were the charming town of Bratislava, capital of Slovakia. A memorable day spent at Cesky Krumlov. And of course the extended time we were able to spend in glorious Vienna.

We got to explore the little town of Szentendre, a short distance from Budapest and home of a vibrant artist colony of the last century. Known for its colourful homes and winding cobbled streets it was particularly lovely to get to experience a slice of small town Hungary.

Wending our way along the mighty Danube we came to Vienna the following day. Here we made full use of the ships full complement of (electric) bikes to zip around the city independently. In the evening we were treated to our own private recital of classical music, featuring the likes of Strauss and Mozart, at the fabulously ott Palais Liechtenstein.

One of the finest mornings we spent docked at Durnstein, tucked away at a bend of the river this picturesque village is watched over by the ruins of a 12th century castle. Supposedly this is where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned - found by the wandering minstrel Blondel who travelled from castle to castle in the region, singing up to castle walls in search of the King. The walk up the hill to the ruins was moderately strenuous but definitely best enjoyed first thing before the village comes alive and the streets become crowded.

We enjoyed a fantastic summers day in UNESCO listed Český Krumlov, an almost unbelievably pretty medieval town dominated by the enormous castle complex and made up of a labyrinthine old town which is bound on all sides by a horseshoe bend of the Vltava river. Lots pf atmospheric local restaurants and good old fashioned Czech pubs can be found here, with everyone spilling out on to footpaths and making the most of the lazy river and the European summer sunshine.

We rounded out the week at the university town of Passau which known for its baroque architecture. And yet another immaculately preserved old town, Regensburg. Our visit here happened to coincide with a jazz festival, so the streets were alive with merriment and activity. The perfect end to a balanced week of leisure, exploration and indulgence.

Vanuatu: Michelle

Where am I – Lazing in the South Pacific on beautiful Vanuatu.

Based on the main island of Efate, the main international gateway into Vanuatu for 1 week of adventure into untouched rainforests and lush tropical beaches. Face-to-face encounters with ancient tribes, climbing amazing waterfalls, snorkelling and diving spectacular reefs is all on offer in Vanuatu!

Highlight – Swimming in the bluest water I have ever seen at the Blue Lagoon. Run by a local tribe, a small entry donation gives you all day access to swing off the rope swing into the lagoon to your hearts content.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – If you’re feeling adventurous there are many opportunities to buy local food from small mobile vendors at the local markets held around Port Villa almost every day. Vanuatu's national dish - Lap Lap consisting of yams and banana soaked in coconut cream creating a paste which is then wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an earth oven. Lap lap has a pudding-like consistency and we ate it with chicken. We also loved the array of fresh tropical fruits and fresh fish (Poulet) on offer everywhere.

Lost in translation moment – Driving around the island was a little tricky at times. We had hired a car for a few days to get around the whole island to explore but at times found the roads very badly maintained so a little stressful in a hire car. Also locals are not the best drivers and drink driving is very common in Vanuatu (especially on national holidays) so you need to be extremely cautious or avoid driving on these days.

Insider tip – I would definitely recommend pre-organising all your sightseeing prior to arrival into Vanuatu. There is so much to see and being able to spend the day with a local meeting the different tribes as you venture from Waterfall to rainforest is not something you would want to miss. The tours can book out very quickly as cruise ships frequently are in.

Fun fact – They invented bungee jumping! From early April on Vanuatu’s Pentecost Island, the locals begin to build high wooden towers (around 20 to 30 meters) and until about the end of May, village men and boys dive from these rickety structures with vines attached to their ankles. Nanggol, as the ritual is known, is seen as a precursor to bungee jumping and the country has even sought royalties from modern adventure firms for stealing their tradition!

Destination – Vanuatu

Duration – 1 week

Suitable for – Families with young children will particularly love this destination!

Uluru: Ceri

In June 2019 I chose to take a break from our Victorian winter and travelled to Uluru for 4 days.

The Jetstar direct flight between Melbourne and Ayers Rock, departing at 0945 and taking just 3 hours a convenient and perfectly acceptable airline choice, especially as the Viva Holidays  economy holiday ‘wholesale package airfare’  included, meals and 20kg check in luggage, providing a seamless start to my winter break.

AAT Kings have an enormous presence in the centre, with all flights into Uluru being met by AAT Kings large comfortable coaches for transfer to the Uluru Resort – a purpose built complex of accommodation, restaurants and shops catering to every visitor to the centre.

The transfer takes approx., 10-15 minutes depending on your accommodation, I chose to stay at Voyages Desert Gardens Hotel and this is the first accommodation complex as you reach the resort.

I primarily chose this property as having just undergone a refurbishment and the complimentary upgrade to an Uluru view room allowing for clear ‘distant’ views lived up to expectations. The room was spacious and the soft refurbishment evident.

The 1st floor accommodation affording the views, is set in several blocks within the resort and can only be accessed via steps therefore not the correct choice for all clients. These rooms also faced the main access road into the resort which was surprisingly busy not only with coaches but the grey nomad camping brigade – June & July being a peak time to visit!

The Emu Walk apartments is a reasonably priced apartment  complex and perfect for families on a budget, located alongside Desert Gardens. Lost Camel again predominantly apartment style another well priced option here. Outback Pioneer is a more budget style of accommodation and located the furthest from the airport – this property does have a lively bar popular with all visitors and backpackers alike.

Sails in the desert has always been considered the most deluxe accommodation option at the resort – the actual guest rooms were not obviously more superior than Voyages (in fact were smaller) but lift access is available here. The public areas have a definite more deluxe feel and the restaurant outlets offering the most superior menu and wine list catering to the most discerning of guests. 

The better restaurants in all the resort hotels  get booked out – it is advisable to pre-book especially for Sails to avoid disappointment.

Sightseeing

To visit Uluru itself a National Park entry permit must be purchased , at a cost of $25.00 for a consecutive 3 days use – this is an easy online procedure https://parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru

I chose an AAT Kings  Uluru Sacred Sites & Sunset Tour for our first night. We were collected from our accommodation at 1445hrs and taken to the Uluru Kata Tjuta visitor centre for an initial introduction to this historical land. Here the Tjukurpa Tunnel takes the visitor back to the beginning of time with historical documentaries and explanation of the Anangu Law. A visit here ensures a full understanding and respect for the area and the importance and significance to its custodians.

There is also a shop selling original Aboriginal Art pieces and wood carvings – well worth a visit. Following this we were taken by coach and the stories of the various faces of Uluru were fully explained.

A short walk to a picturesque waterhole completed the visit, before being taken to a viewing point away from Uluru where we experienced a stunning sunset over the magnificent rock – together with champagne and canapes a highlight end to the informative evening.

The following morning we participated in another AAT Kings  Sunrise at Kata Tjuta Tour – formally known as the '“Olgas.” Collected at 0610hrs we were taken by coach to the foot hills of the expansive rock formation and to a viewing platform at the western dune where a box breakfast was served while watching the sunrise over Kata Tjuta and also Uluru in the distance. Warm clothing essential as a very cold 4C when we started this tour.

Following sunrise we were then taken to the Valley of the Winds walking trail  - a fabulous 3 hour guided walk – stunning clear sunshine this was a highlight of my trip to the centre.

Our free day we elected to return to Uluru, and hired bicycles to cycle around the base of the rock – a flat easy 9.5 kilometres – I especially enjoyed no tour time restraints.

As last year was the final time visitors were being allowed to climb Uluru, it was especially busy with queues of visitors lining up to conquer this. However after visiting the Tjukurpa Tunnel experience we elected not to participate in the climb in respect for Anangu Law, it also looked quite steep and difficult!

Our final tour again operated by AAT Kings was the ‘Night at the Field of Light’ - a spectacular art installation closely located to Uluru which visitors walk through once night falls .

Prior to the walk – sunset is enjoyed with pre-dinner drinks and canapes giving the opportunity to talk to others and compare ‘Red Centre’ holiday experiences. A delicious 3 course gourmet dinner is then served under a star filled sky on shared tables of 10 accompanied by an interesting talk by an astronomer.

Having visited Uluru in a fairly mainstream way with AAT Kings and certainly appreciate  this AAT product is perfect for many clients, I especially liked the option for using a more boutique operation and SEIT Outback Tours answers this. Most tours are operated by Mercedes Benz 4 wheel drive 11 seater vehicles ensuring a  maximum group of 10 passengers in the group. The pros and cons of various options we can definitely discuss with you and arrange something to suit your specific needs.

Uluru complex itself is a credit to the ownership employing predominately first nation personnel throughout. The Kulata Academy Café is highly recommended for light meals and bakery products. The café operated  by students from Ayers Rock Resort's National Indigenous Training Academy, a terrific concept for their step into hospitality.

All in all a terrific highlight of our Uluru visit.

Japan: Monica

Where am I - Japan (on this trip I was privileged enough to visit Tokyo, Kamakura & Kyoto.)

Such an enormously varied and diverse country; you could visit every year and see and experience something entirely new!

Highlight – Hard to choose between Kyoto (city stay) and Kamakura (beach and hiking trails). In Kamakura loved the hike on the Daibutsu Trail through forest (approx. 2 hours) and Komachi Dori street - the street leading from Kamakura Station, 360 metre long stretch of food, souvenirs, designer clothes, galleries and cafes.

Also, just on the outskirts from Kyoto a must is a visit to Arashiyama. First take train on subway to Kyoto Station and then hop onto the JR Line to Arashyama. About 20 min. Visit the bamboo groves and Tenryuji temple (Zen temple with gorgeous gardens and ponds. Really old weeping cherry blossoms which would look amazing during blossom season.) Just as beautiful is autumn to see the Maple trees. Note: Visit here first thing in the morning to avoid crowds.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) - Important for coffee lovers, the Arashiyama branch of Kyoto’s artisanal % Arabica chain occupies a superb position overlooking the Hozu-gawa River, just upstream from the Togetsu-kyo Bridge. The coffee is some of the best in the city and the location is great. There’s only a tiny outside sitting area, but that hardly matters when you can just carry your cup to the riverside and enjoy it while watching the boats float by. In case you’re wondering, the name is pronounced ‘Percent Arabica’. There are two other Arabica branches in Kyoto – % Arabica Higashiyama (pass this one on the Kyoto and Lanterns Tour) and % Arabica Fujii Daimaru.

Another food favourite is the Japanese Pancake referred to as Okonomiyaki. Which we sampled at every opportunity!

Lost in translation moment – Every moment provides an iconic “Lost in Translation” opportunity.

Insider tip – In order to try and spot a Geisha or Maiko (trainee Geisha) in Kyoto head to the Gion Kobu district between 5:30 -6pm where they are jumping into waiting vehicles to be taken to nightly engagements.

If looking for a grocery store or food market just head to a train station where they are located under them.

Fun fact - Size wise, fits into the state of California , bursting at the seams with 130 million people.

Chicago: Michelle

Greeted by friendly staff as we checked in to Air New Zealand's newly refurbished lounge prior to our flight we were treated to a range of delicious food and drinks. Coffee promptly delivered after ordering with the ipad self-service system. Sleek design which is open and spacious yet offering enough privacy to unwind before flight.

This design theme continues as we stepped on board our 777-300 wide body aircraft to Auckland. Operating 3 cabins - business, premium economy and economy. Business class set out with the inverted seat pattern to offer every seat an aisle access and fully lie flat seats. I was struck mostly by how much bigger the seats in premium economy were. Leather seats set out in a spacious 2-3-2 configuration provide much more width (19.3 inch) and pitch (41 inch) than I had envisioned.

Transferring through Auckland Airport to our next flight was a breeze and we were soon stepping on board the new Dreamliner to Chicago, Air NZ’s newest direct route. This flight operates 3 times a week with seats available in business, premium economy and economy. Economy also has the added benefit of Air New Zealand's SkyCouch which is well worth the upgrade, especially if you are travelling with kids!

15 hours later we landed in the Windy City (which isn’t windy at all) of Chicago. Our hotel of choice was The Viceroy, located in the upscale neighbourhood known as the Gold Coast. With its stately homes and high rise apartment buildings it proved as a great base to further explore this enigmatic city. The Viceroy Chicago is housed in a 120 year old, art deco building with a rooftop pool & bar offering city skyline and lake Michigan views. Boutique style accommodation provide spacious, well appointed, retro chic décor giving us everything you would expect from a 5 star accommodation.

After a quick nespresso (offered in room amenity) we were ready to hit the town (surprisingly I know after such a long flight!!) We headed to Chicago’s most famous steak house, Gibson’s Bar & Steakhouse, known for their larger than life steaks and old school hospitality (all male waiters.) After dinner we continued on to yet another famous location, this time known for its music - Kingston Mines, the largest and oldest operating Blues club in Chicago.

After a refreshing sleep and hearty breakfast at the Pancake House located steps from the hotel, our first day in Chicago started with enjoying the panoramic views of the city from Sky Deck Chicago. Buzzing up the 103 floors in less than 60 seconds you definitely feel on top of the world. If you’re game you can step out onto the “Ledge”, a glassed in platform hanging out over the city skyline of Chicago. A great way to gain a birds eye view of the city and structure a plan on best how to fit everything in!

A stop at the Chicago Theatre we were guided through a building steeped in history on the daily tour operating at midday from the lobby. Next, time for lunch at Pizano’s Pizza & Pasta on the Chicago Loop for Chicago’s famous deep dish pizza. Invented in Chicago this pizza is more like a pie by Australian standards with toppings piling up inches in the deep pan.

Our afternoon was spent on Segways exploring the city with Absolutely Chicago Segway Tours. As a complete Segway novice it didn’t take long to gain confidence with the instruction and pre tour Segway practice with our friendly guide. We then scooted out to explore Grant Park and Buckingham Fountain before buzzing back though Michigan Avenue famous for its outdoor art installations, statues and monuments on our 2 hour tour.

After a much deserved break from too much fun we ventured back to our hotel to get ready for our visit to yet another icon The Green Mill. Heaving with people even on a Thursday night we found ourselves a booth and a couple of drinks to sit back and enjoy the tunes from the 30’s and 40’s jazz era while watching couples of all capabilities dance the night away in what used to be the club of choice for the infamous Al Capone.

To commence our second day we started with a visit to the historic hotel – Palmer House. Built by Potter Palmer for his wife Bertha back in 1871, only to burn down 13 days later and be rebuilt again as the most luxurious hotel of its time. Operating the first ever elevators not only does the hotel boast it’s proud history of architectural feats but also the long stream of past presidents, performers and authors (Oscar Wilde stayed here). A timeless hotel with the walls adorned with original paintings from Monet (Bertha and he were friends) it definitely has the wow factor to impress as you enter the lobby with the most amazing ceiling fresco. Rooms (all 1641 of them) are well appointed and offer a glimpse into the past while giving the guest all the modern conveniences they are accustomed to.

To continue on with the art them of the day we walked to the nearby Art Institute of Chicago, passing past the Historic Route 66 Sign for a quick phot opportunity. Across the road we entered and were greeted by our guide for our tour of one of the oldest and largest art museums in the USA. Soaking up all the information our guide was divulging upon us we visited the institutes American art wing, modern & contemporary wing & impressionist wing. A full day could easily be spent here and highly recommend the Public Tour. Alternatively you can do a self-guided tour with headsets available to give you the insight into the numerous masterpieces curated by the gallery.

Moving on from the Art Institute we spent the afternoon on our free Chicago Greeter Tour of Millennium Park. By registering at least 10 days prior (they are busy), Greeter visits as they are known are operated by enthusiastic volunteers and totally customisable on what part of Chicago you most want to see. With our Tour of Millennium Park our Greeter first met us in the Chicago Cultural Centre to show us it’s two beautiful stained glass domes before stepping across the road the Millennium Park. The park hosts free music events in the summer of an evening along with open air cinemas. Filled with all sorts of gatherings it is a lively town square with a difference. The most notable of attractions here is the Cloud Gate structure affectionately called “The Bean” by locals. The sculpture reflects the skyline of Chicago in its mirrored appearance while visitors try to get the best selfie picture.

Another night, another show to attend. This city really doesn’t sleep with all the clubs, bars, music venues, theatre performances (Broadway shows have their pre performances here) there is so much to see and do! We went to a late night improv show (starting at 11pm) at the Second City. Having never attended an improv show before I was totally in hysterics during the 60 minutes of witty humour and highly recommend.

Day three was focusing primarily on Chicago’s architecture. A quick trip up to another observation tower, this time 360 Chicago and Tilt. Instead of standing on a glass platform at height over Chicago to get your kicks you can tilt outward from the John Hancock building, 1000ft over Magnificent Mile!

Chicago is a city of firsts and you soon learn how it’s history has shaped how most of our cities operate today. With its uplifting architecture you soon realize why it is regarded as “the most beautiful city in the world” as it is absolutely astounding! To experience the history and appreciate all these man made beauties we set out on the Chicago Foundation’s Architectural River Cruise. Named in the top 10 tours of the USA this was a definite highlight to my time in Chicago. The 75 minute cruise along the Chicago River educates you on the history of Chicago and how it was rebuilt after the Chicago fires. Our expert guide informed us on the varied architectural wonders as we wound our way down the river. Noting that the first high rise was designed by a native Chicagoan after the fires with its steel frame, buildings from here on could only go up as you gaze in wonderment at so many unique and beautiful buildings.

To finish off our day we geared up our tastebuds to discover a local foodie paradise in Chicago’s West Loop on the Chicago Food Planet’s – Gateway to the West Loop Food Tour. With its chequered history this neighbourhood is now well known as the hottest place in cuisine and also the home of Facebook, Google and where Harpo Studios (Opera) used to be based. Offering a great insight into the neighbourhood (used to be a rough meatpacking district) our guide introduced us to some of the best restaurants and food I have experienced. Catering for palates the West Loop is definitely the place to go for foodies. If you don’t do the Food Tour I really recommend venturing here as it houses the best restaurants in Chicago.

Restaurants recommended are;

Bonci Pizza - Rome-based Italian import selling scissor-cut slices featuring distinctive toppings, sold by weight.

161 N Sangamon St, Chicago, IL 60607, USA

Kuma's Corner - Owners Mike and Rick combined three of their favorite things: burgers, beer and metal. Their ethos is simple: Support Your Community. Eat Beef. Band Your Head.

852 W Fulton Market, Chicago, IL 60607, USA

Nonna's & Formento's - Owner John Ross and Executive Chef Todd Stein bring a sense of warmth, family and unforgettable food that is reminiscent of Sunday family dinners at Ross' grandma's house.

925 W Randolph St, Chicago, IL 60607, USA

Cemitas Puebla- Family owned restaurant specializing in traditional Poblano foods, using recipes that can be traced back to Tony Anteliz’s family in Puebla, Mexico

817 W Fulton Market

While in town your stay wouldn’t be complete without seeing either a hockey or basketball game. We watched the Chicago Bulls play at the United Centre for a great sporting experience filled with entertainment and what you would expect from a sporting arena.

For our last day in Chicago we were treated to a unique gospel experience at the House of Blues. The Gospel brunch included local talent performing both traditional and contemporary songs. Before and during the show there is the endless buffet of food and complimentary mimosas! Don’t miss the signature chicken and waffles which are more delicious than you would expect. Dance it all off as you wave your napkins in the air throughout the highly energetic and engaging performance.

Overall the time spent in Chicago was a whirlwind and you could easily spend 4-5 days here whether it be connecting through to another destination or as a stay in its own right. The easy accessibility with the direct flight on Air New Zealand will increase numbers to this fabulous city as word gets out on how truly special it is.

Fiji: Ceri

HILTON FIJI BEACH RESORT – Denarau

Large resort spreading along the coastline of Denarau Island – perfect for one or two night pre or post Mamanuca or Yasawa Island visit as closet location to Port Denarau and only 20 mins from the airport.

Caters to families (includes on site kids club catering to children 3- 12 years) , couples and small groups of friends. Plenty of facilities and  a variety of entertainment,  sports and activities offered on a daily basis

Bbq provided and full kitchen – the resort can provide meat packs on request.  

First floor accommodation has the better views, though must be noted that it is all stair access, no lift. Large balcony full sea view with day bed and loungers – suggest requesting rooms 2000 and above – newly refurbished – spacious rooms with bath that can be screened off or left open into the room

Adult only restaurant ‘Koro’ opens out to an to adults only pool. The spa is also located in this complex.

CASTAWAY ISLAND

This resort has not changed significantly in the many years it has been here, which is part of its appeal. Totally Barefoot luxury – VERY high level of service – all staff used our individual names straight after arrival.

The whole ethos is to disconnect from everything electronic and re-connect with your family

The resort Bures, all looking like a traditional Fiji Village, are  all the same size taking a maximum of two adults in a king size bed screened off from two coaches that can accommodate two children. Small bathroom separate shower and toilet – basic décor but adequate. There are hammocks outside each bure which was a nice tropical touch!

Should be noted that as part of their efforts to disconnect, there are no WIFI, phones or TV’s in the Bure’s.

The resort does offer a tranquil adult pool and also a child friendly pool next to the kids club. The Kids Club itself is also unique as modelled on a Fijian village with no technology but lessons in replanting of the coral and environmental sustainability a big focus, open 0900hrs until 2200hrs .

The resort offers 4 restaurant choices with ‘1808’ winning the Egon Ronay award in 2018. Sunset Bar a very pleasant area for the relaxing and olbligatory sundowner, also has a Pizza Oven , if you elect not to move from here. No room service offered though a Pizza Box can be taken back to guests rooms if required.

A courtesy Bure, with a large bathroom located  close to the Kids club is offered to accommodate early arrival and late departure of guests.

Spa Bure offering massage, manicure and pedicure.

North Beach has the softer sand and snorkelling water activities straight off the beach – South Beach has  a small beach with steps into the water for snorkelling.

TROPICA Island Resort

Located on Malolo Island – (adjacent to Six Senses Resort) – Tropica is an adults only resort  with private pool villa accommodation. Fijian conical shell and refreshing iced ginger tea welcome as guests arrive. Together with foot massage for each guest – nice touch.

Should be noted that the beach is not great and reef shoes are essential.

Cute swinging seat on each balcony where couples can watch the sunset with a sundowner. Décor a little basic but perfectly adequate and terrific if the island is not pitching itself too high

Main resort restaurant and pool area at the centre of the resort,  clean white and more modern minimalist in style.

MALOLO Island resort

An ideal affordable family friendly island. Visually on arrival not as attractive as others as the local village is to the right of the arrival pier. Definitely an Island that grows on you I feel as the main building where the restaurant and public areas are located , which is set back from the beach, are housed in an impressive large white colonial looking building.

Bures are large and very well equipped – clean white and mostly beach front – high ceilings with ceiling fans in both the bedroom and living area. The family Bure is a terrific size with two separate bedrooms with king beds and 3 couches that convert to single beds sleeping up to a maximum of 7 guests.

The island offers watersports, a kids club and a weekly Managers cocktail party on a Saturday night where the children are encouraged to preform the traditional Fijian dance taught at the Kids Club.

Beach predominantly coral not soft sand – reef shoes necessary – good snorkelling off the rocks at the left of the resort.

Again WIFI not encouraged and only available near the beach bar. Stepping away from technology the ethos and one of the main focuses for a stay here.

LIKULIKU

Absolutely loved this resort - everything from the welcome on arrival in a little separate bar area attached to the pier to the tastefully decorated restaurant,  where  a wonderful choice of buffet and A La carte breakfast was served. Visually they have achieved perfection with spectacular entry to the resort across a bridge astride the lagoon where they are replanting coral.

Bures are private, with rich timber furnishings, a large king size bed and each comes with a private plunge pool and day bed located just steps from the water. The Overwater Bungalows also spacious with an indoor bath that has clear sea views – snorkelling available from each Bungalow via private steps from the terrace. Each has a glass floor panel for watching the water from the privacy of your room - no Bungalow overlooks any other.

Guests at Likuliku could walk to Malolo resort at low tide – Likuliku does not permit the opposite!

Smaller resort than I had previously thought though very pleasantly surprised. Adult only, high standard, that would suit Honeymooners and couples that appreciate a high level of service.

SIX SENSES FIJI

When it comes to ‘wow’ factor this property has it all – the arrival via the resort private Motor Yacht at a modern private Marina sets the tone for the property.

Located on a sweeping stretch of sandy beach undoubtably the best island beach in Fiji.

The resort is built to replicate a traditional Fijian Village with thatched roofs, though all with solar panels which makes the resort completely sustainable, and follows the sustainable tourism focus that Six Senses pride themselves on worldwide .

Without doubt the most stunning Villa accommodation with contempory Fijian décor. Each Villa is assigned a Butler who explains the touch point electronic control of all elements in the room and bathroom. Large bathroom, gorgeous fixtures and fitting, heated underfloor tiles and Japanese style heated toilet. Outdoor bathroom with large bath and shower – simply stunning.

Central resort area with spacious bar and restaurant overlooking the resort pool and beach – open kitchen with locally grown produce used predominantly in the resort. Kombucha produced at the resort is served at breakfast daily (I liked that!)

Six Senses Spa is outstanding and of a world class standard with an extensive spa menu to choose from. Individual Spa Huts offer single of couple treatment rooms.

I would point out that the Kids Club, outdoor Gym and chicken coop are all located quite a distance from the main resort building and I wonder how many parents would be happy to leave their children here, seemed a strange choice.

The resort shop and fine dining restaurant (closed when we were there) is also quite a distance from the accommodation and again seems a strange choice of location. 

The staff at Six Senses did not seem very cohesive  either – the western management team were terrific but this did not seem to filter to the waiting staff – I felt it all seemed a little too new or something.

There is still also a lot of construction of more residences which is ongoing for a while and can be a little off putting in terms of noise.

Maldives: Hugh

COMO Cocoa Island

We arrived by speedboat (45mins from Male airport) in the dead of night. The temperature was pleasantly muggy but in the dark it was very hard to get a sense of where we were. After a very brief and pleasantly informal check in, bleary eyed we weren’t capable of taking much in! We were escorted from the pier to a long wooden walkway stretching out in to the bay. Arranged along this were a string of overwater bungalows - the only type of accommodation at this uniquely small property - all of varying size and a few shaped like the local Dhoni boat. It took a bit of concentration, whilst gawping at our surrounds, not to fall in to the water! First impressions on entering my room were definitely wow. It was enormous, with a bathroom (indoor and out) on the left and a huge double height living area at the end of the entryway. From here a set of glass doors opened out on an oversized deck, replete with the obligatory sunlounger and steps down in to the water. Upstairs was a mezzanine bedroom with a very welcoming super king size bed as well as another small powder room.

One of the reasons we love Como properties so much is their understated approach to health and wellbeing. Breakfast is a combination of buffet and a la carte, all served in an airy and open pavilion which they also use as the main space for lunch and dinner. No limp and overcooked bain-marie here! The selection of buffet pastries is baked freshly on site, the juices are freshly squeezed and the a la carte options cooked to order are simply divine. The fruits, strangely enough, are imported from Australia. You can check out some of their COMO Shambhala Cuisine recipes here and perhaps try your hand at recreating something at home:

http://www.comoshambhala.com/cuisine/special-recipes

Our first day was a little overcast; December should traditionally be a safe bet for weather (peak season runs from November to April) but these days you never can tell! Fortunately, this didn’t hinder our first activity which was a turtle snorkelling trip by boat. The two girls who led our group were fantastically enthusiastic about island life and their incredible job. After getting familiar with the difference between Green Sea Turtles (larger & rarer in these parts) and Hawksbill Turtles (bearing a very distinctive curved beak) we headed out about 30mins from the resort to a drop off point and promptly dived off in to the deep. Sadly, both turtles are categorised as ‘threatened’, and in the Hawksbills case, critically endangered. So, it was a real privilege to see them gently going about their lives in this pristine environment. You’re not allowed to chase them or hover above if you can help it, but they seemed quite happy to go about their business and didn’t appear in the least bit shy.

We had planned on a sandbank picnic lunch which did sound pretty fabulous but unfortunately this was relocated inside due to the inclement weather. Luckily the weather soon cleared up for us to partake in a hotel inspection; being such a tiny island this was a much less involved task than normal! We were shown around the beautiful spa centre (which features a very impressive hydrotherapy pool – a picture required to do it justice!)

As well as a visit to some of the other room types. From the lead in Dhoni Suite which is a more intimate (and single level) version of the ones that were comfortably ensconced in, the Loft Villas. Through to the two-bedroom Como Villas, one of which you will find located at one end of the boardwalk (for sunrise) and at the other end (for sunset.)

This property has an extraordinarily high repeat client business (while we were there a guest was in residence on their 40-somethingth visit!!) and from touring the island you can see why. There are only 33 overwater suites and villas and a charming, barefoot lux vibe. This is the kind of place where the staff know your name but are never intrusive. And from the first few hours with your toes in the sand you already feel a million miles away from home.

That afternoon we had a gentle hatha yoga session with the sounds of the sea gently lapping somewhere behind the palm trees. Bliss. Followed by their signature ginger tea and a short stroll out along the sandbank to check out the amazing contrasting blues surrounding you on the atoll. Perhaps the best thing that we did though was to snorkel just off the deck of our own room. Around 100ms from the steps was the most incredible drop off point where the atoll meets the sea. Surrounded here by hundreds of infinitely coloured and interesting fish (and the odd shark) it was like bobbing around in a real life aquarium!

In the evening we enjoyed a candlelit seafood feast on the beach.

After breakfast we headed out by boat to a nearby floating platform where we hopped on the efficient Maldivian seaplane service for our 50min flight south to Maalifushi. I didn’t realise there was a time zone difference in the Maldives, so we set off at the same time as our arrival. Maximising our time spent on the beach!

From the air you can clearly get a sense of the remoteness that comes with a stay this far out in the Indian Ocean. The Maldives is made up of 26 ring shaped atolls, harbouring more than 1,000 coral islands.

COMO Maalifushi

Maalifushi is currently the only resort located on the unspoilt Thaa Atoll, which is one of the most southerly. Well regarded for its diving and the opportunities to surf (season from April to October) its also just a great place to get away from it all!

First impressions; it’s a very different proposition to Cocoa! For a start it’s very much larger. With an island footprint that eclipses that of its more established northerly neighbour and around double the room capacity. They gift you with a bicycle on arrival that you use to get around (though you also have the use of a buggy which is only ever a summons away if you don’t fancy peddling.) My jaw dropped when I was shown to my room; a Water Villa. It was gigantic with a free-flowing living area, bedroom and bathroom all configured around an inviting sundeck (replete with private pool.) As well as unimaginably inviting views of the azure water and various islands scattered beyond. It really does have to be seen to be believed.

After some time to enjoy our rooms we had a briefing at the dive centre and I almost burst with excitement when I realised that Whale Shark diving is an opportunity here. Which we of course promptly signed up for. Rather unusually they do the dives at night when the sharks are drawn up to the surface by fishing lights in order to feed. It’s by no means a guaranteed sighting, I believe in general it happens once or so a week. But just in case, the dive team set aside your gear and equip you with an old school Nokia phone which you are to keep on you at all times in case of a call out (between 1900hrs and 2300hrs.) Suffice to say the phone never left my side! For lunch we dined at their informal Thila Bar. And in the evening we were hosted for yet another delicious seafood BBQ dinner, in the main restaurant Madi, which was of course perfection.

The following morning the indulgence continued with a sixty-minute COMO Shambhala Massage. I was only sad that I spent most of the time with my face down as the environment of the treatment room was beyond amazing and the water views were somewhat wasted on me! My masseuse was a lovely lady from Indonesia (by way of the COMO Parrot Cay property) with a deft touch that sorted out any remaining stress.

Following this we were led out by boat to a nearby island (which belongs to the resort) where they had set up just for us an elaborate picnic lunch. Picnic being an understatement.

Once we were sufficiently satiated with lunch and massages, we had a resort inspection to check out anything we hadn’t yet experienced. The highlight of which was definitely for us the chance to check out the Como Villa which was an extraordinarily beautiful two-bedroom space of gargantuan (4392sq ft) proportions.

The rest of the day was largely ours at leisure. Then dinner this evening took place at Tai, the specialist Japanese restaurant.

The next morning the sun was shining yet again (after that first day of slightly inclement conditions the weather had been very kind) so we headed out by boat around the island for another turtle dive. The conditions were a little on the choppy side and the snorkel itself was in deeper water but the things we got to see made it so worthwhile; from turtles to sharks, rays, giant clams and even a reclusive moray eel.

In the evening, as the sun was setting, we headed out yet again on the water - this time amongst the luxurious surrounds of the 68ft house yacht “Cameron.” We were out to spot Spinner dolphins but we were completely unprepared for the unbridled glory of seeing hundreds of them surrounding the yacht as we cruised along, waking up from a day of rest and leaping out of the water. Nobody knows for certain why they do it but it makes for a most impressive site!

Broome: Monica

Where are we?  Broome (BRT Office getaway September 2018)

Hotel: Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa, 3 night stay.

Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the only resort overlooking Broome's iconic Cable Beach. 22Kms of white  sandy  beach. The hotel offers a meet and greet transfer service and on arrival to the hotel (approx. 15 min drive) we were greeted with a glass of bubbles as we checked in. Nice, let the weekend begin!

The resort offers a diverse choice of accommodation from studios, bungalows, villas and suites all located amongst  acres of landscaped gardens. Our twin share rooms were very spacious. The resort caters well to couples /adults ( adults only pool, Chahoya Spa, poolside bar) and also for families with a family Pool, water playground, mini golf and tennis courts. There is an assortment of restaurants with the daily buffet breakfast served from the Sunset bar and Grill overlooking Cable Beach. The views and food were definitely a morning highlight!. Camel Safaris along the beach at the front of the resort was a daily occurrence both for sunrise and sunset. Was good to see that these camels were quite clearly very well looked after.   

To Do: Arriving late Friday afternoon it was nice to relax with a swim at the adult pool, followed by sunset drinks on the beach and finally dinner at the well-known local Matsu’s Brewery and Restaurant. Sitting on the outdoor Verandah sipping a Mango Chili Ginger Beer whilst digging in to an array of super fresh meals rounded off the day perfectly!       

Arrival was perfectly timed for the Saturday morning Courthouse Market to pick up a few souvenirs (Pearl Necklace!) followed by a quick walk around the town of Broome (found the Oldest Outdoor Cinema in Australia)  before the heat of the day started to kick in. Back to the pool to lounge away the afternoon before our specialty dining experience at the hotels fabulous Japanese restaurant, Zensai.      

After a leisurely breakfast Sunday we had a private tour around the area provided by the hotels own staff and vehicle. Visiting Gantheaume Point  (stunning red rock cliff face at the southern end of Cable Beach), Town Beach and The Japanese Cemetery . It was a really good way to see the area in the time frame we had.

Back to the Pool and beach of course to escape the heat (36) and enjoy some relaxation and a few cheeky cocktails before we head back tomorrow.

Highlight:  Nightly Sunset Drinks on Cable Beach (BYO to be right on the sand) or could visit the Hotel Sunset Bar and Grill (TIP- get a seat early!).

Fav Meal: A very special Saturday night degustation dinner at the Zensai Japanese restaurant. Seating only 30 people the food was so fresh and authentic and the service impeccable. My mouth still waters when I think of that Black Sesame ice cream. 

Fun facts: Gantheume Point , approx. 6kms from the resort and can be walked to along the beach has at low tide dinosaur footprints 120 million years old and a natural phenomenon known as  Staircase to the Moon (reflection on the water from the moon resembles a staircase) occurs a couple of times each month. Unfortunately we missed the staircase but it is always good to save something for a return visit.

Next Time: Scenic flight over Horizontal Falls

Thailand: Hugh

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

I spent my birthday here at the always fab Como Met Bangkok (coincidentally my second visit to the same hotel in the space of a year!) Great location for access by rail to all the city has to offer - yet offering a perfect respite from the hustle and bustle. Decor follows the modern / clean lined approach which reflects the COMO groups approach to everything. The fresh and healthy breakfasts here are a real highlight (as was dinner at Nahm; just recently awarded a Michelin star for the second year running.) And you cannot visit without experiencing the Shambhala Spa, their signature treatment is amazing!!

We then flew south, for a stay at the sister property; COMO Point Yamu, Phuket.

Everything about this resort is just glorious. Easily accessed from the airport (20-30mins), the property sits on a promontory overlooking the Andaman Sea and the dramatic limestones of Phang Nga Bay. We were lucky enough to be ensconced in our own personal Bay Pool Suites; massively oversized accommodation with a personal plunge pool and a divine outlook over the Bay. The gigantic main pool area was the perfect location to take in sunsets. And the dining options - La Sirena and Nahmyaa - offer the finest, most moreish cuisine along the same lines of the Como Met.

We didn’t leave the resort (other than to spend a day on their private Como Beach Club island) but if you are inclined to venture out, Phuket Town is only 40mins away by car and Patong a similar distance.

Our final destination is part of the exclusive ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the World’ group; Pimalai Resort & Spa. Krabi.

A more traditional Thai style property, with the most gracious management and attentive staff. There aren’t many places in the world that can boast such a sublime setting. The hotel and villas are spread out over the tropical hillside offering complete privacy. And being the only property in the region the beach is virtually your own. They offer buggies to get around as it really is a massive (and hilly) complex. Though good to get in a bit of excercise after all the feasting. The spa centre here was magical; immersed in the jungle and offering a heady dose of relaxation even before the massage and treatments had begun. Bliss!

We flew with Thai Airways, the best full-service airline for Thailand.

They offer direct flights of course in and out of Bangkok. And convenient connections through to Phuket and from Krabi. Fortunately we got to experience both economy and business. The food for both was a real highlight as were the friendly, discreet staff. Since we travelled they now operate a brand new Airbus A350 aircraft with a completely new fitout.

Britain: Hugh

This year I was fortunate enough to return "home" - my first visit back during the months of summer since I emigrated to Australia (a long time ago!) 

The emphasis for this trip was predominantly to catch up with friends and family. Though we also squeezed in a two week self-drive exploration of previously unexplored parts of both England & Wales. 

Some of the highlights from our first few days in the South were the fabulous Bombay Sapphire Distillery, just outside the picturesque village of Whitchurch - on the River Test. The self guided tour here is highly recommended (pre-booking essential) and at the end you'll be rewarded with a custom created cocktail! 

And a quick stop at Stonehenge - which is always an otherworldly experience. 

From here we stayed in the Welsh village of Laugharne (home to the famous Welsh poet Dylan Thomas), the seaside town Tenby (so pretty that I took a couple of hundred photos here alone!!) and of course my home town of Abergavenny. 

Definite highlights in this region were the pilgrimage site of St Davids - home to our patron saint (St David) and a pretty unique Cathedral. As an added bonus, the drive here along the ragged coast was spectacular.

The friendly town of Pembroke, with it's magnificent castle. And the little chapel of Saint Govan's - tucked deep in to the cliff side of a sometimes inaccessible Ministry of Defence piece of land. Well worth the trouble to reach it! 

I achieved a life long dream (nerd alert) of finally visiting Chatsworth House, Derbyshire (home to some pretty amazing characters - and of course some equally amazing gardens.) It didn't disappoint. And neither did the surrounding countryside which was amongst some of the loveliest that we encountered on our whole trip. Luckily our time here coincided with a great exhibition "House Style", featuring five centuries of fashion and adornment at Chatsworth. 

We were staying in nearby Youlegreave. And of course (being a notorious glutton) made time to stop in at Bakewell, just down the road, for some famous Bakewell pudding. 

Continuing our journey north we spent some time in the incomparable Lake District. The walks were incredible - and the pub lunches after a just reward! If you encounter a rainy day here and walking is not such an option I could definitely recommend the charming art deco cinema in Bowness Windermere. It's been in operation for over 90 years!! 

The home (and garden) of Beatrix Potter at Hill Top was a lovely pit stop on the way to Yorkshire. As was Holker Hall - another property belonging to the Devonshire family (of Chatsworth fame.) We stopped there for a lovely lunch in the sunshine, and then an independent ramble around the Hall and gardens. 

Our base in Yorkshire was the village of Grassington. And I wouldn't stay anywhere else. From here you are easily able to access walks in all directions across the Yorkshire Dales. We took a leisurely stroll from here to Burnsall, a quintessential taste of this part of the country. And it's a good position to access the larger town of Skipton (30mins away) for a change of pace if you've had enough of village life. Again, my nerd factor is in evidence - I got to visit the Haworth Parsonage (home to the Bronte sisters.) Google took us on a rather circuitous (but interesting route) through some nail biting back streets (how these are supposed to accommodate more than one car is beyond me!) Especially at 60 miles per hour. The Parsonage was exceptional and would be a must see for fans and non fans alike - if only for the sneak peek in to Victorian life. 

We dropped our car off in Leeds and took the train back in to London. Based in the hip suburb of Stoke Newington (Hackney) offered a different aspect of the city from my previous time here. Loved visiting the local L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele (an offshoot of the Italian pizzeria of "Eat Pray Love" fame) as well as the usual city sights (National Gallery, Hyde Park etc etc) 

Until next time! 

Lord Howe Island

I've had Lord Howe on my wish list to visit for many years, and my recent stay more than lived up to expectations.

UNESCO listed Lord Howe, located in the Pacific 600 kms east of Sydney, represents the most pristine of Australian Island's with just 320 residents who all work together as conservationists to maintain the unique flora and fauna and the most southern of our Coral Reefs unusual to be found in such a temperate climate, which ranges from 22-26 most days during summer.

Just 11kms long and 2kms at the widest point the island only accommodates a maximum of 400 guests at any one time, mostly in 70's motel style self catering accommodation clean and comfortable, but very little choice if something more contemporary is required.

The island board of governors insists that the accommodation is discreetly hidden behind foliage dense and subtropical, the Kentia Palm is prolific and a major export for the island, along with stunning Banyan Trees and fragrant Frangipani it reminded me a lot of Hawaii.

Old  Settlement is the central point of the island with most of the accommodation within easy access of the General Store located here where provisions have been available since 1927 - quite sure nothing has changed here since it opened, an icon.

There is also an island co-op manned by locals from 11am until 5pm daily selling locally produced goods, the icecream is highly recommended .

Generally food provisions are pricey as the majority of goods are brought in by ship fortnightly and variety very limited getting close to the arrival of the ship.

The Anchorage restaurant is open daily for breakfast through to dinner, and also doubles as the island bakery where delicious cakes and breads freshly baked are a highlight and must visit for my daily coffee and muffin - yum!

The only other cafe is located within the museum complex, a must visit for a very comprehensive detailed history of the island .

Dinner on the island is offered by the various accommodation not on a daily basis and I soon worked out Sunday was Hamburgers, Monday Fish and chip night at Milky Way, Tuesday Beachcomber served an a la carte dinner, and this was my favourite a high standard with good choices. Dinner generally is around $28- $38 for a main course

What is unique to Lord Howe is that your accommodation offers transport to the various dinner venues at 630pm, and the venue returns you to your accommodation following dinner. This in reality meant we were always home by 9pm. Lord Howe is not for anyone looking for any kind of nightlife, as no street lights, bars or anything other than the Anchorage Restaurant open past 9pm!!

The island is stunningly beautiful, especially the green and blue waters of the Lagoon, with the backdrop of Mount Gower, dramatic when the weather changed following a 3 month drought. The locals were thrilled but this stopped our ability to participate in several of the scenic walks as the tracks were muddy and slippery.

Transport for tourists is on foot or bicycle- easily hired at a cost of $55.00 for a week and a fun way to get around though our accommodation was at the top of a significant hill - push bike was right!! 

Settlement Beach and Neds beach were fabulous for snorkelling with Turtle viewing at high tide a highlight at Settlement beach.

I participated in a  snorkelling /Turtle / wildlife tour operated by Islander Cruises in a glass bottom boat, good value at $60.00 p person for 3 hours. Peter the owner operator was very informative on every aspect of Lord Howe, fishing, sealife, birdlife and politics and fiercely proud of his island. A nice touch was the serving of tea or coffee with his wife's chocolate cake - appreciated after 30 minutes snorkelling and served in a pleasant picnic spot at North Beach.

I would thoroughly recommend my choice of accommodation at Earls Anchorage; the complex of 6 large 1 and 2 bedroom villas with spacious living area, large well equipped galley kitchen, spacious separate bedroom with king bed and equally spacious bathroom with shower and the added bonus of a washing machine. Pleasant private outdoor deck and bbq ensured everything necessary for a relaxing comfortable holiday. The villa unit was serviced daily with Twinings Tea and plunger coffee replaced as necessary.

A highlight for me was the discovery of Stevens Reserve accessed from our accommodation enabling a pleasant natural bushland walk taking approx 12 minutes to the lagoon and Old Settlement village - once found this was a daily highlight for me.

Another bonus of staying at Earls Anchorage is the ability to charge back from the Anchorage restaurant.

During my stay I also visited Capella Boutique Hotel, located in a cleared farm area of the island, adjoining  the island 9 hole golf course. The views from the restaurant and small infinity pool towards Mount Gower are stunning. Mark, the very laid back manager of the Hotel showed me through the public areas which has a fabulous bare foot luxury feel to it and comes highly recommended.

The location near the airport and approx. 15 minute bike ride from old settlement village easy access by the push bikes provided by the hotel for active clients.

Capella does not open its restaurant to anyone other than guests. 

Arajillo is the other luxury Hotel on the island, and arguably in a better location at Settlement Beach, walking distance to the village. The accommodation is very well appointed however I was surprised at the block of accommodation which detracted from the overall luxury feel of the property. Hidden amongst the dense vegetation too, therefore no views. 

Arajillo boasts a fine dining restaurant with a 4 course dinner at $95.00 per person. They will take a waitlist for dinner reservations confirmed only if their residents chose not to eat in; known as the best restaurant on the island yet unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity to dine here.

Another unique aspect of Lord Howe is the virtually non existent levels of crime! Not any of the properties have door locks - took a little while for me to become comfortable  with this before  leaving valuables in our villa. There is a police station and the major felony is fining those tourists who don't wear bicycle helmets!

Lord Howe is a perfect destination for more active clients who can appreciate the many walking opportunities. Comprehensive maps are available with all walks graded from 1-5 Mount Gower being 5 and only available as an escorted guided walk with an official guide. Families with young children can also enjoy the laid back holiday experience with safe calm waters and little or no WIFI allowing a complete step away from busy lifestyles.

Many of the guests return year after year. I spoke with an elderly gentleman who was enjoying his 22nd visit!! 

Be prepared for delays in travelling here, as the tiny airstrip and small Qantas prop jet aircraft servicing the island is very much weather determined. Often flights can leave Sydney but unable to land on the island and turn around mid flight with an unplanned overnight in Sydney quite common, and extra nights on the island also quite usual to accommodate this.

Currently Qantas cover the costs for one nights delay, more than this is at clients own expense therefore good travel insurance is a must for this destination.