Silversea Arctic Cruise: Cati

Where am I – Arctic Expedition Cruise aboard the Silver Wind, from 30 July to 11 August 2023

Destination – Svalbard (Norway) Greenland & Iceland; a total of 2,033 nautical miles

Duration – Thirteen days

Suitable for – A Silversea Expedition Cruise is suitable for the discerning traveller with an intrepid sense of adventure, and a taste for luxury!

Silver Wind

Crew onboard: 239 | Guest Capacity: 274 | Suites: 149

Refurbished in November 2021, Silver Wind is a luxury Expedition ice-class ship which is small and intimate enough to go where others can't. In addition to the ice-strengthened hull and technology upgrades, Silver Wind received environmental improvements such as new reverse osmosis system for producing potable water, an advanced wastewater treatment plant, new food waste treatment technology, and fuel-saving boilers. A big ducktail was also added on the back of Silver Wind to improve the performance and stability of the vessel. Once the dry dock work was completed, the suites were refurbished, including new walk-in showers, and public spaces were refreshed.

Features:

• 4 Dining options: The Grill, La Terrazza, The Restaurant & La Dame

• Pool Deck

• Fitness Centre

• Panorama Lounge (one of my favourite parts of the ship to while away an afternoon at sea.)

• Zagara Beauty Spa

• Dolce Vita Bar

• & the Observation Library

30 July: Early morning charter flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen.

Weather: High 9°C Low 6°C

Welcome to the Arctic – Spectacular, dramatic, yet desolate scenery. Land of the Midnight Sun.

Svalbard is a deserted archipelago full of other-worldly landscapes, polar bears, walrus, whales, seals, reindeer, foxes, hares and ice. Beyond the vast glaciers, towering mountains and rare wildlife, what makes Svalbard unique is how barren it is.

Once on board, on this first day, we were introduced to our Expedition Leader Iggy Rojas and his Team and informed about what to expect in the days to come.

Cati’s Birthday. What a treat! Spoilt at dinner that night by my fellow companions (7 ladies) and then upon returning to my cabin, I was welcomed with cake, champagne and balloons which had been set up by my Butler and Cabin Steward.

Every night, passengers receive a Daily Chronicle which offers a wealth of information regarding the weather, activities, entertainment, dining options and contacts onboard as well as the Programme for the following day.

Lectures and Information sessions are also telecast to the cabin TV. There was no lack of options for enjoying live entertainment, games, reading, listening to lectures, exercising in the Gym, relaxing in the Wellness centre or, of course, eating and drinking!

As you can imagine, I took full advantage of the Sauna.

31 July: At anchor Ny-London, Svalbard

A lone Polar Bear was spotted in the sparse vegetation along a hill top. We couldn’t move too close to the shore so as not to interfere with the bear in its natural habitat.

Whenever we ventured out in the Zodiacs, we were greeted with a hot toddy (hot chocolate with Baileys, Kahlua, Amarillo, Rum or Whisky) upon our return to the ship…….Yum!

01 August: At anchor Texas Bar, Svarlbard

Texas Bar (no-one knows why it was called Texas Bar) is nestled on the north side of Liefdefjorden, not far from Monacobreen which is a glacier in Haakon V11 Land on Spitzbergen, Svalbard.

02 August: At anchor Julibukta, Svalbard and then later in the day at Lilliehöökbreen, Svalbard.

Evidence of a whale at sea, but I could only see the water spraying out from its blowhole – sadly no breaching.

03 August: At anchor Gaffelbreen, Svalbard and later at Poolepynten, Svalbard

Today, no Zodiacs could go ashore but we spent several hours watching the antics of a young polar bear trying to “socialize” with a group of Walruses.

Despite being enemies, the walruses weren’t perturbed by the presence of this lone bear – safety in numbers undoubtedly.

04 August: A pleasant visit to the Bridge to meet the Captain and some of his Team along with the Hotel CEO who provided an insight into the amazing operations required for providing food and removing waste.

At sea: (choppy & grey) en route to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland

05 August: At sea: en route Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.

When not going ashore, there was always a great opportunity to attend the talks given by the expert Expedition Team on Flora, Fauna, Geology, History of Arctic Explorers and Local Culture.

06 August: At anchor Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.

Warmer weather! High 13°C Low 10°C

Here we were able to visit a small Inuit community comprising approx. some 460 inhabitants. It amazes me how these people willingly choose to live in such isolated and desolate locations!!

In bygone times, they would have survived by hunting narwals, seals, polar bears and muskoxen – which they still do today – but tourism is gaining importance.

07 August: Cruising Scoresby Sund Fjord, Greenland and then anchor at Bjørne Øer (Bear islands)

Glorious day!

Scoresby Sund (named after William Scoresby, an English Explore) is the largest and longest fjord system in the world. It’s a labyrinth of islands, fjords and ice.

The area is rich in Arctic wildlife, hosting musk oxen, arctic foxes and a wealth of marine life including whales, belugas, walrus and seals as well as several species of sea birds, including King Eiders, Atlantic Puffins and several species of geese.

Several Puffins were spotted today perched upon the rugged cliffs or riding the waves!

The waters of the fjords are often glassy and calm, save for the vast icebergs which calve off the vast glaciers which drain from the Greenland Ice Sheet into the fjord.

No two mountain views are the same - such is the staggering geological variation.

We ventured out in the Zodiacs passing immense icebergs and even walked out onto an icefloe - “walking on water” 😊

Sunsets at 23:45 – Stunning!

08 August – 09 August: Still cruising Scorseby Sound.

Once again out in Zodiacs to visit an abandoned village. Heaps of bones (and sadly rubbish) to be seen. I spotted an Arctic Hare. Evidently mosquitoes proved to be a problem for some – luckily not me.

10 August: At sea. En route to Reykjavik, Iceland

Pack and prepare for disembarkation.

11 August: Disembarkation Reykjavik.

Silver Wind is a small enough vessel that it could dock at the pier in the centre of Reykjavik.

I spent the day exploring the main part of Reykjavik and the Reykjanes Peninsula. Travelling on a local bus between the Keflavik airport and Reykjavík, there is a striking backdrop of churning seas and expansive lava fields.

It’s well worth exploring off the beaten path in this region to discover its hidden gems and magnificent landscape.

At the time of my visit, Iceland was holding a week-long Gay Pride celebration – hence the streets were painted the colours of the rainbow and even Stewards on Icelandair were wearing rainbow scarves.

I took in the amazing atmosphere whilst partaking some delicious street food (Fish stew served with pumpernickel bread and a glass of local beer – scrumptious! )

What an unforgettable experience I was fortunate enough to have had!

PALM COVE: MICHELLE

Where we are: Palm Cove for 3 nights (BRT office getaway!)

This paradise is perfectly situated between Cairns and Port Douglas and is easily accessible from Cairns Airport, only 30mins away. With its relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere, it is the perfect beach side holiday for singles, couples, and families of all ages.

Where we stayed: Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore

With views of the golden sand beach fringed with palm trees from the balcony of our 3-bedroom beachfront suite it was G&T time!! Our room was a spacious double story apartment with a full kitchen and plenty of living space to accommodate the whole BRT family for the next 3 nights.

To Do: Palm Cove is an excellent base to further explore Tropical North Queensland with easy access to iconic attractions such as the Great Barrier Reef, Mossman Gorge and beyond to the Daintree Rainforest. Enjoy meandering along the esplanade through local boutiques, wonderful cafes, and restaurants.

Highlight: During our stay we hired a car and drove to Mossman Gorge for the day. Our 2-hour drive to the Rainforest visitor centre was truly scenic as we cruised up the coastline past several small townships. The visitor centre had ample parking and was flooded with visitors as tour buses arrived one after the other. Surprisingly though it did not take long to get our entry tickets and be on our way through the forest breathing in the fresh air, enjoying the peace and tranquillity of this natural wonder.

Fav meal/drink: Palm Cove is dotted with lovely cafes to sit out and people watch. A favourite was breakfast at Chill Café serving up amazing coffee, super fresh juices and an all-day breakfast menu!

Fun fact: Not far from Palm Cove and well worth a visit is the visit the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary, the largest butterfly flight aviary in the southern hemisphere!!

Next time: So much to see and do up here and with only 2 days we did not even scratch the surface. Next time, must sees include the Kuranda Heritage Market, open every day with stalls offering a wide range of locally produced souvenirs. A trip on the Skyrail cable car to marvel at the lush forest from above and then to catch the train back down and enjoy views of the gorgeous landscape along the way. Also kayaking out to Double Island (Ellis Beach) for a day of snorkelling, beachcombing, and picnics.

Peru: Sian

I spent 2 fabulous weeks exploring the many highlights that Peru has to offer, and it certainly lived up to my high expectations. The colour and culture is evident everywhere, and the diversity of scenery amazed me. We traveled from the Amazon jungle, to the unique and fertile Highlands of the Sacred Valley, before travelling to Lake Titicaca, the Colca Canyon & finishing in the charming desert city of Arequipa. Below are some of my highlights.

Sacred Valley of the incas

The Sacred Valley of the Incas was a highlight for me! Accompanied by amazing scenery, the region really shows off the culture and history that makes Peru so unique. We flew into Cusco, but to help acclimatise to the high altitude we went straight to the sacred valley to spend the following 2 nights at the stunning Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba. We spent a full day sightseeing which included colourful Pisac market and the village of Mismanay where Condor Travel are supporting the local community through education and work opportunities. They provided us with a delicious lunch and we donated some items to their village from Australia.

I love how authentic Peru still is; especially in the Sacred Valley where the distinct colourful clothing is very much part of their culture & not something put on just for tourists enjoyment. This is what really stood out for me - colour and culture in spades!

Insider tip - Altitude and altitude sickness is often a concern for travelers visiting Peru, but there is tablets you can take to reduce the likelihood of developing symptoms. I always recommend avoiding alcohol whilst at high altitude and take some hydralyte sachets with you to put in your water bottle every day. They’re lightweight to pack & works a treat!

machu picchu & cuzco

Unsurprisingly the Unesco listed ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu was a huge highlight for me, and exceeded my very high expectations! There is a very popular 4 day Inca trek which you can do to travel to Machu Picchu, but our group took the quicker option of the Vistadome train. Our day started early by catching the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientas, which is the main town at the base of Machu Picchu. This was a really comfortable service as we traveled alongside the river with some enjoyable scenery in full view from the expansive dome windows. The excitement grew as we then jumped on the bus from Aguas Calyantes; winding up the mountain until we reached the entrance gates to Machu Picchu. The location is really beautiful, surrounded by lush mountains, which adds to the awe-inspiring ancient Inca city. The way that it was built without the use of mortar, metal tools, or the wheel, makes Machu Picchu an engineering marvel. We spent the morning exploring with our guide before heading on to Cuzco in the afternoon, but we definitely recommend staying overnight at Aguas Calyantes & returning to Machu Picchu at sunrise to really maximise your experience.

The Peruvian government are now capping the number of daily visitors to protect the ancient site.

From Machu Picchu our final stop in the Sacred Valley was the charming city of Cuzco. Cuzco is actually South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city! The city itself is much larger than I expected, but the historic centre is lovely - with charming streets and atmospheric colonial buildings framed by the dramatic Ande’s mountains.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) - You can’t go to Peru without consuming their famous pisco sour cocktails! We did a pisco sour making course in Cuzco which was a lot of fun. Favourite meal was definitely Peruvian fish ceviche. Yum!

arequipa

Arequipa was a surprise highlight for me! The charming city centre is Unesco World Heritage listed and has beautiful baroque buildings made from sillar stone (white volcanic rock), which is what gives the city its nickname ‘White City’. Arequipa is surrounded by 3 volcanoes, the largest of which is El Misti making for a dramatic backdrop to the pretty city. I loved wandering the streets in the pedestrian-only centre, and visiting Santa Catalina Monastery. Not only the monastery a photographers dream with its brightly painted buildings, but it’s arguably one of the most fascinating religious buildings in Peru. Built in 1579, it served as a cloister for Dominican nuns from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries, and still houses a small religious community today. I loved getting lost in the brightly coloured streets that link the 3 cloisters.

Insider tip - When shopping for souvenirs; Silver is cheaper in the Sacred Valley/Cusco whilst baby alpaca is cheaper and better quality in Arequipa so you can plan your souvenir shopping accordingly. Also I found the quality & variety better at Aguas Calyentas Market compared with Pisac Market.

Fun fact - Guinea Pig is a delicacy in Peru and they eat it on special occasions such as birthdays. We did give it a try but I found it tricky to eat because there are so many bones. The high altitude provides excellent conditions for growing produce - Peru grows 3,500 varieties of potato and 55 varieties of corn which comes in all colours including yellow, purple, white, and even blue!

Africa: Hugh

Ngorongoro Crater - Tanzania

This collection of photos were shot the morning we descended to the crater floor of Ngorongoro. Up early to catch the first light of day, all disgruntled thoughts about being shaken out of bed quickly dissipated the moment we saw the lions returning home from the hunt & the clouds rolling over the surrounding mountainsides. We weren’t the only people here by any stretch of the imagination but the floor of the crater is massive and it’s very easy to get a little corner seemingly to yourself.

You really get a sense of this being the literal birthplace of humankind (just west of the Crater are the 3.6 million year old Laetoli footprints.) And no time of the day enhances this otherworldly feeling than the very early am.

Okavango Delta - Botswana

Well I could easily fill a whole blog post with pictures and memories from our time in the Delta - one of the best experiences of my life. We were fortunate enough to be based at the incomparable Kadizora Camp; situated in a remote corner of the Northern Okavango, our time here was unforgettable. At such an intimate camp, the wildlife is around every corner (and often found crossing your path on the walk back to tent after sundown.) Both experiences on the water, on a boat and also traditional Mokoro canoe, were highlights. Seeing elephants bathing at dusk, hearing hippos mating in the surrounding bushes and crocodiles slipping in to the water on your approach…amazing!

South Luangwa - Zambia

This was an unexpected delight for me - with zero expectation of what Zambia had to offer, lets just say it blew me away. We were based right on the river side, so our evenings were spent revelling in the sound of numerous (and vocal) hippos gearing up for their night as well as elephants casually walking through camp.

Relatively untouched by mass tourism, you get to revel in a sense of true wilderness here. And also have the opportunity to venture out on a walking safari…which I haven’t been able to partake in anywhere else and have been assured (despite the ever present hyenas) that its perfectly safe to do…memorable at least!

Of all of the wonderful experiences here, I must be honest and say that I didn’t love the night safari (another uncommon thing to do), from the minute we spotted the leopard. Up until that moment it was a thoroughly enjoyable and very unique way to see the wildlife as they geared up to hunt (something you can’t really do in many other parts of Africa, where come sundown it’s back to camp.) Due to the obvious excitement that comes hand in hand with witnessing this rather elusive big cat, came a certain level of (I felt) intrusive spotlight & vehicle action as the poor (injured) leopard tried to evade a pack of lions on the prowl.

Cape Town - South Africa

What a city! Of course, one of the standout experiences was a trip up Table Mountain (note to self, not the most confident when it comes to cable cars - particularly of the revolving kind!! Next time I might opt for the hiking alternative.)

A day out at Robben Island, notorious as the gaol housing Nelson Mandela during apartheid as well as a visit to the District Six Museum, which commemorates the forced movement of 60,000 inhabitants of various races in District Six - were enlightening experiences.

We stayed down on the V&A waterfront which would definitely be recommended. Such a refreshing change to be able to safely get out and explore on foot with no rogue wildlife to be concerned about (except the cute Rock Hyrax/Dassie - much like our Quokka - that inhabit Table Mountain.) We were amazed at the great value fine dining on offer here, and lovely drinking spots by the waterfront.

India: Hugh

Where am I – Rajasthan, India

We spent an extraordinary two weeks travelling around Rajasthan - from Delhi and Agra, to a tiger safari at Ranthambore. A highlight stay in a 16th-century fort surrounded by sand dunes (Khimsar), romantic Udaipur and the iconic cities of Jaipur & Jodphur. We even trekked out to the former medieval trading centre of Jaisalmer, a long day of driving there and back but so worth the experience of this golden citadel in the dunes.

We did this trip independently, with the delightful company of our private driver throughout and local guides at every stop along the way - booked with our longstanding Indian experts and collaborators; Trailblazer TBI.

Highlight - So hard to pinpoint just one, so I’ll narrow it down to three! First up would just have to be our time spent at the Taj Mahal, it’s iconic for a reason. First glimpsed by us from the Mehtab Bagh gardens, directly across the hazy Yamuna River, I was (pleasantly) surprised at how serene and otherworldly the 17th century mausoleum complex feels - despite being very familiar with it from countless photos, books and clients that I have sent there over the years. Finding a quiet spot (not as hard as you would imagine) and just taking it in was a real treat. We took sunset drinks from a shabby local rooftop bar, the Saniya Palace, which had an unforgettable view out across the rooftops of the old town towards the minarets and dome in the near distance. This sticks in my mind all these years later as an unforgettable moment - watching the sun go down and the monkeys scamper across the roofs as the call to prayer echoed all around (nb. they didn’t stock alcohol but were only too happy to dash down and find some refreshing cold beers from somewhere on request.)

Side note; almost as impressive as the Taj (and much less visited) is the so-called ‘Baby Taj’ (Itmad-ud-Daula.) Also situated on the banks of the Yamuna, just 10mins away, this mausoleum was constructed a few years before the Taj itself and is a perfect jewel box of arabesque design.

My next highlight would be the afternoon we spent rambling around the incredible Amer Fort (30mins from Jaipur.) It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site of absolute wonder that brought out the child in me - I loved the rambling ramparts and the sheer overwhelming size of the hilltop fort, perfectly complimented by ornate interiors and gorgeous courtyards and gardens. The history of this residence of the Rajput Maharajas is so intriguing, and I just could not get enough of the complicated tales of their lives (particularly the women) spent behind these walls. Speaking of walls, the Jaipur Wall which criss crosses over the surrounding Aravalli hilltops brought to mind a strong comparison to the Great Wall of China - and was yet another thing to love about our time here.

And of course, as anyone who has spoken to me about India will know, I loved every minute spent in lakeside Udaipur. From our wonderfully atmospheric hotel on the shore of the lake itself, the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel (definitely recommend a room with a view & dinner on the rooftop to make the most of it’s picturesque location.) To the mighty and impressive City Palace, which conveniently looms large just behind the Jagat Niwas. It’s also a great city for getting out on foot and strolling around the interesting streets filled with boutiques stocking local art, and surprising little temples that crop up at every corner. Nb. the ability to walk independently without being hassled is a rarity in this part of India so it was a pleasant change of pace to be able to get out and explore ourselves.

I also snuck in a couple of hotel inspections here, one of which was to the Taj Lake Palace (perhaps best known these days as the secluded lair of Octopussy, from the 1983 Bond film shot here - more on that to follow.) The moment you step off the hotels private boat as you arrive you are struck by the tranquillity (and beauty) of this gorgeous property, certainly a unique and unforgettable place to stay.

We had a lovely boat trip on Pichola Lake, stopping off at Jagmandir island (home to a 17th century palace) and one evening we dropped in at a funny little bar that was advertising Octopussy showings…we were the only patrons that night but they happily obliged, projecting the movie on to a big screen in the middle of an empty bar, while the family took their evening meal with us.

Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – We stuck to a veggie diet for the duration and that worked well for us; I never got over the variety of dishes (we even had a “McPaneer” - not a culinary highlight but when in… ‘Rome.’) One of my favourites meals was actually at a rather uninspiring hotel in Agra, Who would have thought?! Any opportunity we could get a meal outside or on a rooftop we of course jumped at. When staying at the atmospheric Khimsar Fort Hotel we were lucky enough to have the walls of the fort all to ourselves as the sun went down and we had a couple of “Kingfisher” beers pre dinner in one of the corner turrets.

Lost in translation moment – Well of course this happened most days! You don’t travel to India to feel like you’re back at home. We had the fabulous assistance of our driver and local guides who were always available to field any queries and iron out any kinks. Not that we encountered anything too dramatic. In fact, I’d say on the whole the entire trip was less confronting & challenging than I had perhaps prepared myself for.

My partner and I usually got mistaken for brothers which was a laugh for us. And tattoos are obviously a bit of an oddity in India as everywhere we went we were swamped by friendly photo requests. I don’t know how many families have a lovely smiling collection of pictures of us, but it would be a lot!

Insider tip – Pack a pair of old socks and have these with you on days when visiting temples and the like, as you’ll be asked to take off your shoes. You’ll need some loose change handy to pay the person looking after the shoes and most monuments etc will charge a nominal amount for a photo fee, so have that ready to go as well.

We did a safari at Ranthambore National Park, on the lookout for the elusive tiger (which we did not spot.) I’d go with reasonable expectations, particularly for those clients that have had the good fortune to visit Africa beforehand, as it’s a very different experience. We had a great time bumping around in an open topped jitney vehicle, trying to spot wildlife and on the prowl of course for a glimpse of one of the big cats. A lot of the fun was in the searching and we weren’t too disappointed not to be lucky enough this time around. An unexpected high here was the Ranthambore Fort in the middle of the NP, this made the day and was like something straight out of the pages of the Jungle Book.

Fun fact – When in Jaipur we would highly recommend an evening at the Raj Mandir movie house, the opulent art moderne theatre is a symbol of the city. We splurged on some (inexpensive) premium seats up in the royal circle; during intermission we had access to a cute little bar area. Great fun watching a Bollywood blockbuster with the huge crowd that shouts and sings along for the entirety.

Tasmania: Hugh

Just before the borders closed and the world went in to covid19 lockdown, I was fortunate enough to spend a long weekend with friends in Tasmania. Exploring Hobart is always fun; we stocked up on local goodies at the Salamanca Markets, enjoyed a gastropub lunch at Tom McHugo's and savoured some delicious dinners at Susie Luck’s (Southeast Asian with a twist) and Pancho Villa (Mexican.)

Hobart gives Melbourne a run for top brunch contender with the likes of Pigeon Hole and the quirky Machine Laundry Cafe. We also sampled a few drinks at Preachers bar, Shambles brewery, the Winston…and In The Hanging Garden; a sprawling ‘cultural’ centre with a massive open air bar at its core.

And of course, to top it off we also spent time at the one of a kind (and sometimes downright bonkers) MONA Museum of New and Old Art - reached by leisurely boat ride along the Derwent.

Three Capes Track

The real reason for our visit - with Hobart as a pleasant bookend - was to venture forth on a multi day hike through the Tasmanian wilderness, embarking on the Three Capes Track; 48 kilometres of cliff-hugging wildness in Australia's far south-east.

I just cannot recommend this experience enough! It packs a scenic punch, offers plenty of solitary moments for quiet contemplation, is a sufficient challenge to be rewarding but remains manageable enough for most levels of fitness. The trail is limited to a max of 48 walkers per day, so you get to know your travelling companions but never feel on top of one another. Oftentimes we had the path to ourselves for hours on end without coming across anyone other than the wildlife.

Even though we undertook the walk during the height of summer, sunshine and clear skies were not guaranteed. Either side of our four days they had endured some unseasonably bad rain yet fortunately (for us) the weather gods were smiling down and we had perfect conditions. Would definitely recommend for the best chance of getting similar weather that this walk be undertaken during the peak months of December through April.

The track itself is maintained to such a high degree that you just could not improve upon anything. Along the way the trail masterminds have created 40 story seats which give a fascinating insight into the diverse flora, fauna and turbulent local history.

And the cabin facilities, basecamp for each night, have been sensitively designed to leave an eco friendly footprint with maximum comfort and all of the modcons you could need; including fabulous kitchen and shared living areas that highlight the surrounding landscape, intimate bunk rooms, and even at one of the cabins a hot shower!

We chose to ‘rough it’ by doing the walk independently, with cabin accommodation at three sites along the way. This does mean carrying your own supplies; all-weather appropriate clothing, meals and snacks to survive for the four days. It’s also possible, for those that crave a few creature comforts (and don’t fancy lugging around their worldly possessions!) to do the walk with upgraded lodge accommodation. This also means that three course evening meals are prepared for you…which sometimes would have been rather nice I won’t lie!

You begin and end your Three Capes adventure at the World Heritage listed Port Arthur convict settlement. This was my first time visiting the compelling site, witness to some major historical and more recent tragic events that have helped shape the spirit of our nation. Entry is included with your track passes and I’d certainly recommend arriving early to spend some time here.