Where am I – I travelled primarily for a reunion with my school friends in Wales, with Italy and Switzerland beforehand, and France following.
Duration - 4 weeks
Coral Expeditions: Hugh & Olivia
Silversea: Hugh & Sian
Where are we – a ship inspection on board the Silver Nova (Port Melbourne)
Suitable for – a brand synonymous with European flair and intimate, all-inclusive luxury. Silversea has always appealed to our clients who enjoy the finer things in life, personalised butler service (in all suites), great cuisine and some wonderful intensive itineraries - that pretty much cover the whole globe!
Highlights(s) – The S.A.L.T (Sea and Land Taste), their unique culinary programme. We’ve been hearing about this for years, but to actually get on board and see the spaces that Silversea have created really brought this concept to life. From the S.A.L.T Kitchen to Bar and Chefs Table - it really is such a wonderful idea, and the Lab space really took the cake (so to speak), we’ve never seen such a unique space at sea, where guests get hands on with local recipes in a professional kitchen - oriented to the outside so you really get that sense of immersion. We wish our kitchen at home was quite so impressive!
The Nova carries just over 700 guests with a crew of over 550 - so a high level of attentive service is guaranteed, and something that Silversea has really become known for over the years. The asymmetrical design, with the pool cleverly positioned to the side of the ship, means that the focus is always on the port / destination. Echoing this inside, every space has exterior windows to really draw you in to the location and bring the outside in.
We loved that the Nova (and its sister ship the Ray), had so many defined spaces on board, plenty of room to discover on a longer voyage and heaps of variety when it comes to the number and variety of bars and restaurants to enjoy. We’d certainly recommend making a reservation for everything possible (we can always help with this) as space in some of the more intimate settings is limited; and you would not want to miss tapas to the accompaniement of jazz and blues at Silver Note. Or a magnficent French degustation at La Dame.
All suites come with a generously proportioned veranda, and Silversea’s acclaimed butler service. We loved the Deluxe Veranda Suite which was spacious and well thought out. In some of the larger suite categories, the addition of a separate guest w/c (off the living area) was really clever. But we would say that the layout of the Signature Suite was a little odd - with its walk in wardrobe situated off the living space and quite some distance from the bedroom.
Europe River Cruising & Italy: Katrina
Where am I – River Cruising in Europe - Germany, Austria, Budapest & Italy
Duration – Two weeks
Suitable for – Anyone who wants to visit European cities without having to pack up and move each time (river cruises are a spectacular way to travel!)
Emerald Cruise (Germany & Austria)
I commenced my Emerald cruise in Regensburg. The city itself was gorgeous, lots of history at every corner you turn. A major highlight was the popular dachshund store in town. You are welcomed of course by a real dachshund at the front of the shop for a quick pat before entering. It’s small shop with all things dachshund, from socks to t-shirts – they have all the essentials. I ended up settling on a dachshund coaster as it was my first stop on the journey so I knew I shouldn’t go too crazy with the souvenirs. It’s called the Dackelmuseum and a must visit if you’re ever in Regensburg.
Sailing down the Danube was gorgeous and definitely a highlight in itself while we sailed to Passau. I watched my first and last lock of the cruise – it took 1hr to pass through and I ended up with too many mozzie bites to count!
Passau was my second favourite city of my trip as it’s a very charming city. I tried an authentic German pretzel (which was massive!) and stole someone’s beer for a quick snap for the insta. Possibly the highlight of Passau was the St. Stephan's Cathedral. It literally took my breath away when I walked in (and I’m sure I wasn’t the only one!). It’s truly a must see when travelling to Passau, I still think about it!
From Passau, we stopped in Engelhartszell and I had the most divine hot chocolate… my sweet tooth was satisfied. Also having some time to sit up at the sun deck while cruising down the river was much appreciated. It was super quiet and relaxing, with a slight wind to keep you cool while sitting in the sun.
Scenic Cruise (Austria & Budapest)
After being in small towns for a couple of days, it was strange waking up in Austria and seeing a few skyscrapers! I absolutely loved Vienna – the Schonbrunn Palace was definitely a highlight. The Palace itself was gorgeous, but it was 35 degrees and the Palace had no aircon so I was overheating! The gardens of Palace were also amazing (I just also happened to stumble upon a zoo within the gardens, so strange!). I finished off my visit with a much needed iced chocolate with ice cream from the cafe… super yummy.
Also while in Vienna, we had a Scenic Enrich at the Palais Liechtenstein where timeless music of Strauss and Mozart was performed by a renowned orchestra. The Palais Liechtenstein is only open for private concerts with Scenic so this really was a once in a lifetime experience! The Palais Liechtenstein itself was absolutely gorgeous, it felt really special to be in such a well renowned historical building of Vienna which has been around since the 1600s.
We were still sailing when I woke up just before Budapest (my favourite city on my trip) so I was able to relax in bed for a little longer as I watched the Danube go by. I headed to Szentendre, which is a colourful town just 40mins from Budapest. It’s only small and suddenly pops up when you go down a road. There really isn’t much to do except for shopping and eating. It was also still really hot when I went so I ended up at in the shade most of the time! Nevertheless, still a really nice town to visit and a nice getaway from Budapest.
That night we were able to enjoy a night cruise onboard going up and down the Danube. The Parliament house was lit up and it looked completely different to the day time. The night cruise lasted about 1hr and it was a great way to end the cruise with everyone up on the sun deck! There were heaps of local cruises also on the Danube so the public can easily experience the city from the river.
I had an extra 2 days in Budapest after the cruise. Myself and others from my group decided to do a 2 hour city tour where we got to visit the ‘must sees’. The Parliament House was enormous and certainly the main attraction of the city. I made my way to St. Stephen's Basilica which was unforgettable. You do have pay a small fee to enter, but it undoubtedly worth it. It was the perfect place to escape the summer heat and relax in a quiet place. I finished the night up on the rooftop of the Marriot Budapest with my fellow travellers and watched the sunset. I also checked out the popular ‘floating moon’!
It was tough trying to figure out which other city I wanted to add onto the end of my travels in Europe. I’m really happy I chose Rome, it was entirely different from the calm cities I had just come from. I took one full day venture to Pompeii, Positano & the Amalfi Coast which so worth the 7am wake up and late arrival of 10pm! Not going to lie, the windy roads of the Amalfi Coast did take a bit of getting used to and I felt like we were going to fall off the cliff at any second. Part of the experience, right? Positano was exactly how I imagined it but WAY too many steps for me to count. It was also over 30 degrees so I had to take a few too many breaks. The views of the ocean were impeccable.
I really loved Pompeii, we were only able to explore a tiny part of the vast sight due to time restrictions but I could have easily done a full day in Pompeii. It was super fascinating. We had a knowledgeable guide who knew so many interesting facts, having a guide makes your experience so much better.
I headed to the Colosseum on my final full day in Rome. It was cloudy in the morning so for once I wasn’t sweating before I had arrived at my destination! The Colosseum was also a place I have wanted to go to for a long time. It packed as expected, so it was a little difficult getting around. I was very thankful that I had chosen the arena access as I was able to go inside the grounds (which is still restricted but better than just looking from afar!). We also explored the Roman Forum – crazy to think this was the city centre all those thousands of years ago! It’s still also really well preserved so it was worth visiting. I finished off my travels with The Trevi Fountain which was super packaged – one good thing about travelling solo means you can squeeze through people and get the perfect pic!
Philippines: Hugh
Where am I – the Philippines.
Destination – Manila, Cebu, Bohol, El Nido & Boracay
Duration – It was a quick visit for us (8 nights) but still felt like a decent break. Given the number of places we squeezed in, for most of our clients I’d probably suggest adding more time or taking out an island or two.
Suitable for – Couples, friends and families. And incidentally very LGBTIQA+ welcoming which was lovely.
Highlights(s) – Far and away our time spent at El Nido. Situated on the north of Palawan island, the whole region is utterly magnificent; home to stunning beaches, dramatic limestone cliffs and perfect calm blue seas. Spent three nights here but could easily have stayed longer and would revisit again in a heartbeat.
Island hopping tours are the absolute best way to explore, and are fantastic value for a full day out visiting hidden lagoons and snorkelling. There are 4 (tour A,B,C & D) which visit different locations and include different activities - the 2 most popular are A & C and we did both. A includes the Big Lagoon which provided some unforgettable kayaking, and C includes a visit to Secret Beach which has to be one of the most stunning spots I’ve ever laid eyes on!
**Would recommend packing (or hiring) reef shoes - pretty much essential.
We stayed at the Buko Beach Resort which is a humble little 3* eco (adults only) beachfront property. Gorgeous pool and friendly staff, and the most amazing view out across the sheltered bay toward the surrounding islands. From our base here we could easily walk to a variety of bars and restaurants, and charming pedestrianised El Nido Old Town was a quick 10min tuktuk ride away. Thoroughly recommend a visit to True Wine Bar by Rockinnest, The Treehouse and AP KALA Beach Bar. And Tales Of The Islands Cafe where we had a really lovely evening meal.
For the best sunset I’d head in the opposite direction to Vanilla Beach and pull up a chair at Maremegmeg Beach Club for the afternoon.
The best service (friendly but super attentive and personalised) was at Raffles Manila - definitely the only place to stay in the capital. There are only 30 or so rooms, and a butler on call 24/7. Perfect! Our brief overnight visit started off with complimentary afternoon tea on arrival - followed by complimentary cocktails in the Writers Bar! They also have a really great rooftop bar called Mistral which was buzzing with guests and locals enjoying Friday night drinks. You almost need not leave the sublime hotel, but the surrounding Makati neighbourhood is very walkable and safe.
We spent a few nights on Cebu and visited from here the nearby island of Bohol by ferry. I think with time again, I’d include a stay on Bohol itself, but we dashed around with a lovely driver / guide for the day and did get to see all the highlights; including the famous “Chocolate Hills” for which the area is so famous, and the unique Tarsier - sweet little nocturnal primates. We also spent a few hours careering around on an ATV in the rain, which was very muddy mucky fun, but I’m glad I wasn’t responsible for the driving!
The island of Boracay was our final stop; very similar bustling vibe to Kuta, Legian or Seminyak in Bali (but the beach was pristine and white, and the water unpolluted and swimmable!) Certainly suggest the Shangri-La Boracay here as the place to be - on it’s own private beach, about 15mins from the main beach.
All the decent hotels (Shangri-La, Henann, the Coast and the Lind) provide a handy shuttle / speedboat / shuttle service to get you from the airport to the resort without the need to fuss around with the public ferry service which by all accounts is chaotic and a hassle.
We had the best time listening to live music and watching the world go by along the beachfront promenade at Nigi Nigi Nu Noos. An excellent fish taco for lunch at Mayas Filipino & Mexican, and the best spot for a local beer would have to be the Mai Tai Beach Bar.
A short walk from main beach (around the rocky peninsula) will take you to tranquil Diniwid Beach; book a table for sunset at Dinibeach Bar and Restaurant - an undiscovered gem.
Flights were convenient and direct with Philippine Airlines, around 8hrs each way MEL-MNL-MEL. And to get around the country we used domestic flights with Air Swift and Philippines Airlines, super easy and manageable. Though with time again…I wouldn’t have spent any extra time whiling away hours at Manila Airport before the journey home, perhaps the least inspiring airport terminal I’ve ever encountered!
Phaea Blue Palace: BRT
Today we had the pleasure to meet with Christina, Luxury Leisure Sales Manager, from Phaea Blue Palace; a brand new member of the exclusive SLH collection (Small Luxury Hotels of the World.) Their ethos is to balance a unique sense of place with authentic Greek hospitality - perfect!
What a gorgeous property! We loved their focus on connection with the local Crete community (93% of the staff are from the island.) Located just a short walk from the bijou fishing village of Plaka and a little further afield (10mins by car), to the elegant port of Elounda.
Partake in some gourmet delights from the field-to-table Phaea Farmers Feast pop-up restaurant (where you can dine around a communal table in the organic garden), to refined Greek cuisine at Anthós. Or be lucky enough to sample some carefully guarded family recipes at the Blue Door Taverna, set in a traditional fisherman’s stone cottage.
Siem Reap: Hugh
Where am I – Siem Reap, gateway to the ruins of Angkor
Duration – Three days
Suitable for – all kinds of intrepid travellers. The small city is easily accessible on foot and home to a wide variety of accommodation, lovely restaurants and a vibrant night market / bar scene.
Highlights(s) – the Temples! It goes without saying. The major drawcard of the region are the incredible temple ruins of the ancient Khmer Kingdom which date from the 9th–15th centuries.
Angkor Wat of course is the main event, being the largest religious structure in the world it can’t fail to impress.
Best viewed at sunrise when the colour of the rising sun casts a special glow over the stone facade and the surrounding jungle comes to life with birdsong and crickets. Don’t be put off by the hordes of people joining you down by the lakefront to snap the perfect shot of the temple reflection - as soon as the sunrise is over there’s plenty of room across the vast temple complex to get away from the crowd and really take your time contemplating the incredible statuary and carvings.
Equally impressive were the nearby ruins of Ta Prohm - made recently famous by Angelina Jolie and the Tomb Raider film shot here. The jungle is steadily reclaiming the temple, piece by piece. Quite incredible and also when I was here, virtually deserted, so I had plenty of time to appreciate it’s beauty and tranquil setting…without feeling rushed along.
The Bayon Temple - situated nearby, is visually striking for the giant faces carved on each of it’s four sides. Look closer and you’ll see (much smaller, intricately carved) bas-reliefs that depict important events like battles and pictures of everyday life, giving an idea of life in Cambodia during the 12th and 13th centuries.
I didn’t make time on this visit, but would thoroughly recommend checking out the Angkor National Museum before visiting the temples. Will give you invaluable background and insight to the life of ancient Camodia.
Where to stay – Shinta Mani! This has been our ‘go to’ boutique property for many years and many happy clients, so it was fabulous to finally experience it myself. Situated just 10mins on foot from the bustling Pub Street and Old Market - but a world away!
Designed by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, with super friendly and attentive staff.
The resort itself is spread across 3 unique sites; the Bayon wing is centred around a large central pool and has the main all day dining option Baitong. Next to this is the private pool villa complex. And across the road is the Angkor wing that has a smaller pool, day spa and a more contemporary art deco vibe.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – without a doubt Kroya by Chef Chanrith; traditional Khmer cuisine with a modern twist. Completely unmissable!!
**I also stumbled across a Welsh Pub, the Welsh Consulate, on a side alley near Pub Street - which of course I had to visit.
Recommendation (day spa) - after a long hot day of temple visits and culture, what could be better than a 90min traditional Khmer massage, I popped in to Sokkhak Spa - Riverside (conveniently just down the road from Shinta Mani.) Perfection!
Sri Lanka: Hugh
Where am I – paradise! aka Sri Lanka.
Destination – Colombo, Kandalama, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella, Yala, Weligama, Galle & Negombo.
Duration – Just over two weeks.
Suitable for – Our trip was definitely perfect for a couple, but there’s something on the island of Sri Lanka for absolutely everyone.
Highlights(s) – We loved the tranquil setting of the Geoffrey Bawa designed Heritance Kandalama. From the wild elephants roaming the grounds to the pan flute playing musician that set up each evening to serenade the sunset, it was just unforgettable.
Though a challenging climb - mainly due to the heat - climbing to the top of Sigiriya ‘Lion’ Rock was another major standout. The ancient rock fortress, developed between 477–495 AD, looms large across the landscape and if you have time (and the inclination to get up early), is perhaps best viewed at sunrise from nearby Pidurangala Rock.
A big thunderstorm rolled across town on our first night at the Elephant Stables in Kandy - and I’ll never forget how lovely it was to be perched up on the hill at that beautiful colonial villa, partaking in a refreshing local G&T and about to enjoy an impeccably prepared Sri Lankan feast from their very talented chef Indika.
Ella was a fun town, and 98 Acres undoubtedly the place to stay; gorgeous outlook across a tranquil valley toward Little Adams Peak (which you can easily climb directly from the property.) The whole town has an almost Bali / Thailand buzzy young feel, and 98 Acres have embraced this by developing a rather lovely ‘Pool Club.’
Certainly the standout in terms of luxury was our stay at the Uga Chena Huts, the closest property to Yala National Park (which is right next door.) This proximity means they frequently have animals traversing through the property on their meanderings to and from the park itself. Only 18 “huts”, all with a private pool, impeccable service and fully inclusive of all meals / drinks and safari game drives…ours even had direct beach frontage!
The UNESCO Galle Fort was such fun to walk around. We stayed at the Fort Bazaar (part of the Teardrop Hotel collection) and actually getting to stay within the fort itself was a treat, especially when the daytrippers had left for the day and the streets came alive with local hustle and bustle.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – The nightly dinner buffet at Heritance Kandalama was something else! Abundant and delish, we were even given a behind the scenes tour of the enormous kitchen - they are very rightfully proud of the food offering here.
Afternoon Tea at Amangalla, was a super indulgent treat in a beautifully historic setting. There are lots of good dining options here in Galle, the Bungalow was one of our favourites.
We spent two weeks with our driver and friend Lalith from Tour Blue - our Sri Lankan specialist partner. Nearing the end of our time in Sri Lanka, we were honoured to be invited to his home for a delicious home cooked lunch and to meet his family.
Thailand & Singapore: Xavier
Where am I – Thailand & Singapore
Destination – Khao Lak, Phuket & Singapore
Duration – Twelve nights
Suitable for – for anyone who desires a combination of both luxurious relaxation and is intrigued by unique cultures! Khao Lak is a very family-friendly resort destination as well!
Khao Lak - JW Marriott Resort & Spa
Nestled in the pristine beauty of Khao Lak, Thailand, the beachfront JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort offers an array of luxurious facilities and provides a truly indulgent experience for guests seeking relaxation and recreation, located approximately one and a half hours north of the island of Phuket. What I found particularly fascinating is that the resort is home to the longest swimming pool in South-East Asia which extends for 2.5 km, winding around the resort facilities and pool access suites! It features spacious rooms with elegant furnishings and modern amenities where guests can enjoy the spa, a refreshing dip in the expansive pool, or make use of the fitness centre. Many local activities are also on offer for those who would like to explore the Andaman Sea through snorkelling or diving excursions, however, I opted to relax at the resort for the majority of my time in Khao Lak! One of my favourite things was simply enjoying a fresh coconut in the swim-up pool bar!
I spent 4 nights at this luxurious beach resort with my family in a 2-bedroom pool access suite. Located adjacent to the resort are a selection of a few local beach cafés, as well as options for a local massage which were very relaxing!! We also ventured into the town of Khao Lak to spend some time at the local Bang Niang markets which offered some local street food and shopping, where I indulged in mango sticky rice and smoothies!
Dining at JW Marriott Khao Lak & Restaurant Highlights
One of the best features of the resort is the plethora of diverse culinary options. The resort hosts multiple restaurants, each catering to different palates. From local authentic Thai cuisine to international flavours, you can enjoy a delightful gastronomic journey. A highlight was the breakfast buffet which had so many delicious options it was hard to choose!
Delicious onsite restaurants & cafés:
Ta-Krai: features the rich aromatic flavours of authentic Thai cuisine offering traditional dishes made from local fresh ingredients — this restaurant was particularly memorable given we were able to observe a traditional Thai dancing performance throughout the dinner.
Olive: combines fresh, high-quality ingredients to create a menu filled with delectable dishes inspired by the coastal cuisines of Italy and the Mediterranean cuisines. Similarly, the café Sala was a fabulous lunch option offering Mediterranean and delicious food by the pool.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant: This Japanese restaurant had very unique modern dishes that were unlike others I had seen anywhere else before including unique flavours of maki rolls and other delights which were great sharing plates allowed us to taste the different signature dishes, with a view of the sunset over the Andaman Sea.
Infinity Pool Bar: provides a refreshing escape for guests seeking light bites and creative cocktails as well.
Surin Beach — Twinpalms Phuket
After a fabulous and relaxing time in Khao Lak, we headed back to Phuket island for a 4-night stay at Twinpalms in Surin Beach. Surin Beach is nestled on Phuket’s west coast and is known for its pristine sands with crystal clear waters and lush greenery, creating a tranquil yet more urban atmosphere than Khao Lak.
Located about 100m from Surin Beach, the Twinpalms Resort, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, was a fabulous hotel that combined contemporary and local interior design offering an array of fabulous facilities. The resort features a stunning pool area, a massive fitness centre and 2 onsite restaurants called Oriental Spoon and the Wagyu Steak-House, the former of which housed the delicious buffet breakfast with great views over the local bay. During our stay here, we had a massive 2 bedroom duplex with a private pool which was so nice to be able to enjoy the privacy of the hotel.
One of the great services that the resort offers is daily complimentary fruit platters in the mid-afternoon. Everyone was gathering around the pool bar and the bar with plates of tropical fruits was a small gesture that everyone was loving at the hotel!
On one of the days at Surin Beach, we decided to explore the beach clubs that are affiliated with the hotel, located only a 15-minute shuttle bus ride away such as the famous Catch Beach Club and Lazy Coconut. They are a great way to enjoy some lovely pizzas while enjoying a vibrant atmosphere with local DJs playing tropical music, while watching the sunset over the Andaman Sea.
The hotel is located within fairly easy proximity, about 30 minutes, from the Phuket Old Town. The Old Town is known for its famous Sunday Markets which attract many visitors and locals from around the large island of Phuket. i found the old town to be a charming district showcasing Sino-Portuguese architecture. The stunning street of Soi Romanee has been dubbed as one of the prettiest streets in the world. The narrow streets are lined with colourful and well-preserved buildings which host a vibrant mix of cafes, boutiques, art galleries and temples with the market extending through the Thalang Road, captivating with local crafts and cuisine. Given the extent of culinary options, I opted for some delicious gyoza and dumplings at these bustling markets and fresh guava juice out of the plethora of fresh fruit stands. We also visited the well-known Patong Beach which is a bustling town full of nightlife and shopping, however, I would personally avoid staying in Patong and instead opt for some of the nearby towns like Surin Beach.
Singapore — Clan Hotel
After a fabulous time in Thailand, we caught a flight from Phuket to Singapore, which I was highly anticipating as I had been excited to explore this famous metropolis. I was initially amazed by the sight of the Jewel in the Changi Airport, the iconic waterfall with lush foliage houses inside the airport terminal. It is simply astonishing how such a famous monument can exist inside an airport terminal!
We then headed to the hotel for our 3 night stay at the new Clan Hotel, by Far East Hospitality, which only opened in lockdown in 2021. This stunning hotel is situated above the Far East Square which features buildings and shops dating back 170 years, located on the prominent Cross Street. The views from the hotel overlook the many skyscrapers and fabulous skyline that Singapore has to offer, inspired by the crossroads of culture and commerce which invites the guests to enjoy the combination of both historical charm and modern luxury.
The hotel offers a welcoming tea ceremony for guests to enjoy on the day of arrival during their stay with a lovely tea master. We tried the unique Oolong tea and traditional Singaporean pastries which was a great way to engage guests in cultural experiences, so we went back several times throughout the stay to enjoy the tea and pastry in the lobby! The rooftop infinity pool and rooftop gym (located on level 30) overlooked the surrounding skyline and provided a lovely place of retreat to cool off in the heart of the bustling city!
During my time in Singapore, one of the best experiences was eating at the Lau Pa Sat markets. I highly recommend these markets to anyone visiting Singapore as they offer delicious cheap street food from many cuisines around the world in the heart of Singapore. All the locals and tourists were visiting this bustling food market and we enjoyed a selection of various food including Japanese and Korean food for 2 nights in a row — we ended up going 2 nights in a row given how delicious the food was! I really enjoyed cruising around Chinatown to explore the fascinating markets and diverse cultures of people, architecture and cuisines in Singapore, particularly with all the decorations with the upcoming lunar new year of the Dragon.
On the first full day, we explored the Marina Bay Area walking past many famous monuments such as the City Hall, Fullerton Hotel, Helix Bridge, and Art & Science Museum on the way to the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel. I had booked us in for sundowner drinks for late afternoon which allows you to visit the rooftop without having to pay for the entry fee to the swimming pool area — highly recommend! This rooftop offers sweeping 360º views of the entire Singapore skyline. I enjoyed a pizza and an Aperol spritz on the top of the building before we ventured down to The Shoppes Marina Bay Centre which has a luxurious shopping centre with many worldwide brands where I enjoyed doing some shopping.
Following some shopping, we ventured over in the late afternoon to the Gardens By the Bay where we visited the fascinating Cloud Forest and Flower Dome, some of the world's largest indoor greenhouses with diverse species of flora. The super trees have a fabulous light show at 7:45pm and 8:45pm each night which was great to see and highly recommend for visitors to Singapore, located in the beautiful gardens.
The second full day was another fun day where we visited Sentosa Island for a delicious açai bowl brunch at the Tanjong Beach Club. I found it so fascinating how Singapore has built the entire Sentosa Island from reclaimed land and made it resemble a natural pre-existing beach town. The beaches there were super lovely with lots of dining options, beach clubs and activities. After a fun morning at Sentosa, we made our way back to enjoy the facilities at the Clan Hotel, before exploring the famous Orchard Road shopping strip for some more shopping and dinner on our last night in Singapore. I was amazed at how many shopping centres there are along this road which was a great way to end our time in Singapore! Overall, Singapore was a place I would love to revisit one day given the extensive options of activities to do in this thriving Metropolitan hub.
Virgin Voyages: Hugh
Where am I – Virgin Voyages ‘Resilient Lady’
Destination – Burnie, Tasmania
Duration – Two night getaway, Melbourne return
Suitable for – Couples, singles and groups of friends. The ship is adults only (18+), with a strong focus on good food, unique experiences and a vibrant day / to night life.
Highlight – I felt the two night voyage was a great option for anyone new to cruising, and the timing (just pre Christmas) was a fun way to wrap up the year. Sailing from and to Port Melbourne made the whole experience as stress free as can be (I travelled home on the tram, virtually door to door!) And actually journeying out of Port Philip Bay itself was an unexpected treat - we watched the sun going down over the city from the prime vantage point of The Dock House; situated at the rear of deck 7 with an expansive indoor outdoor layout. Once you’re settled, you can order a variety of mezze treats straight to your sunbed as the spray from the ocean occasionally mists over the deck to keep you cool. Perfect!
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – With only two nights to play with, we had our work cut out to visit every single restaurant and bar on board (there are over 20!) but we made a valiant effort!!
Pink Agave (Mexican) was an absolute standout for quality of the food (as good as anything you’d have on land) and the attentive service. I loved the decor of Extra Virgin (Italian), and we had some fabulous aperitivo sitting at their bar pre dinner one night. Would definitely have returned here for a proper sit down meal if we could have secured a reservation. Next time.
The sophisticated surrounds of The Wake (steak & seafood) made for a very glamorous brunch venue. Surprisingly I managed a morsel here (not to mention a morning mimosa), after sneaking in an earlier breakfast at Razzle Dazzle - with it’s outrageous & vibrant decor living up to the name.
We had the obligatory snack pizza at the aptly named Pizza Place. Even managed to squeeze in a few treats in The Galley; Virgin’s version of a buffet, featuring a mix of shops and food-truck-style carts specialising in everything from bento & ramen to burgers & tacos.
Really the only major venue we didn’t at least sample was Gunbae (Korean BBQ), which by all accounts a lot of fun. (*Hot tip, we did pop in here with some takeway breakfast as they opened the restaurant for overflow seating and it was great to get away from the hustle and bustle of the much busier Galley.)
And the only dining disappointment (for our group) was the laboratory-like Test Kitchen; loved the concept, but none of us particularly enjoyed the cuisine.
*You can make dinner reservations (limited to one venue per evening) in advance of your sailing date…and this is highly recommended as they do book out, especially for these shorter sailings. Walk in / waitlist are a possible backup but not guaranteed.
Life on board – With such a large ship, there’s always somewhere new to explore. I particularly enjoyed some of the quirkier design aspects - like the ‘muscle beach’ vibe of the top deck Training Camp. As well as features not found on many (any?) other cruise line; like the barbershop Stubble & Groom, the in house tattoo parlour Squid Ink, and the bookable private karaoke rooms.
Our Sea Terrace (balcony) cabin was compact but very cleverly designed. Heaps of storage and a convertible bed / sofa which was a great bonus when getting together with friends to make multi use of that space. We didn’t really utilise the hammock on the balcony…but I daresay for a long sunny day at sea, this would be the perfect spot to enjoy a good book!
Scenic Eclipse: Hugh
Where am I – on board the 6-star Discovery Yacht, Scenic Eclipse.
Destination – Central America
Duration – Thirteen day “Central American Discovery” voyage from Panama City to Loreto, Mexico. Cruising the Pacific and the Gulf of California.
Suitable for – Couples, singles, groups of friends and family. Anyone with a sense of adventure, and a taste for luxury! Scenic accept children over 12yrs but there’s not a lot on board which would likely engage them.
Highlight – Sunset, Isla Tortugas (Costa Rica.) The staff opened up the back of the ship, set up a floating pontoon and put on an impromptu bar and dj - the absolutely perfect end to a big day; dangling our feet in bathtub warm water, sipping on French champagne and watching the sun go down.
Another unforgettable moment came when sailing the waters off Mexico; we got the call to get on deck, where Discovery Team members were on hand to point out huge pods of dolphins cruising along with us (along with a variety of different whales, including a blue whale sighting - which has been a lifelong dream of mine.)
The wildlife was varied and impressive throughout. I’ve never seen manta rays jovially flipping out of the water (seemingly just for our amusement), or birds diving in to the water to catch flying fish. And can tick both those off the list now!
On our voyage, we visited Panama, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala & Mexico - often areas that are only accessible by boat and remain relatively untouched by mass tourism. What a treat!
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – Would certainly recommend that as soon as you embark (even before you head to your suite) you ask your butler to direct you to the maître d where you will be able to request dinner reservations for your voyage. And after this…head up to the spa to lock in a treatment or two, especially in demand are any days you may have exclusively at sea.
All dining is included at every venue onboard, but reservations are essential for Lumière (French fine dining), Sushi @Koko's (limited to just 18 diners per sitting) and the Night Market @ Koko's (a rotating roster of specialty cuisine, for just 8 guests - we could only get in for one evening, and it was certainly a standout experience!)
Keep an eye on the daily updates as well; for limited capacity activities like yoga, pilates (as well as wine and whisky tastings!)
We didn’t partake; but if the helicopter or submarine are of interest those are also essential to pre book, though you aren’t able to specify a date or time (as those are weather and location dependent)
Suite – We got to indulge in the very luxurious surrounds of our very own Grand Deluxe Verandah Suite (40m2), with two (two!) of our very own butlers on call 24hrs a day to see to our every whim - not that we were at all demanding. They did very kindly ensure our minibar was stocked at all times though with our gin (and tonic) of choice.
Though we were spoilt for choice in terms of dining venues on board, it was also lovely to get breakfast set up on our verandah one morning. And it was super charming to arrive back to our room late one night, Easter Sunday, to find a selection of Swiss chocolate laid out for an in suite Easter egg hunt!
Life on board – The ship caters to a fraction over 200 guests to just under 200 staff. With a guest to staff ratio of nearly 1 to 1 the service levels are naturally very attentive, but also friendly and familiar.
They operate an open bridge policy, so you’re welcome to venture up anytime and have a chat to the captain. They are obviously proud of how technologically impressive the ship is, and how nimbly it handles some challenging conditions - we were very thankful to chat about their oversized stabilizers when we encountered a tiny patch of rough seas!
This openness extends to the expert Discovery Team who are onboard travelling with you and always happy to answer any and all questions you may have. From historians and geologists, to archaeologists and photographers - what a job that must be.
One of my favourite spaces was the Observation Terrace on Deck 5, which opened straight out on to the best section of deck, and offered a tranquil getaway to curl up with a good book. The Lounge Bar was also where you would find us of an evening, working our way diligently through the cocktail list!!
Silversea Arctic Cruise: Cati
Where am I – Arctic Expedition Cruise aboard the Silver Wind, from 30 July to 11 August 2023
Destination – Svalbard (Norway) Greenland & Iceland; a total of 2,033 nautical miles
Duration – Thirteen days
Suitable for – A Silversea Expedition Cruise is suitable for the discerning traveller with an intrepid sense of adventure, and a taste for luxury!
Silver Wind
Crew onboard: 239 | Guest Capacity: 274 | Suites: 149
Refurbished in November 2021, Silver Wind is a luxury Expedition ice-class ship which is small and intimate enough to go where others can't. In addition to the ice-strengthened hull and technology upgrades, Silver Wind received environmental improvements such as new reverse osmosis system for producing potable water, an advanced wastewater treatment plant, new food waste treatment technology, and fuel-saving boilers. A big ducktail was also added on the back of Silver Wind to improve the performance and stability of the vessel. Once the dry dock work was completed, the suites were refurbished, including new walk-in showers, and public spaces were refreshed.
Features:
• 4 Dining options: The Grill, La Terrazza, The Restaurant & La Dame
• Pool Deck
• Fitness Centre
• Panorama Lounge (one of my favourite parts of the ship to while away an afternoon at sea.)
• Zagara Beauty Spa
• Dolce Vita Bar
• & the Observation Library
30 July: Early morning charter flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen.
Weather: High 9°C Low 6°C
Welcome to the Arctic – Spectacular, dramatic, yet desolate scenery. Land of the Midnight Sun.
Svalbard is a deserted archipelago full of other-worldly landscapes, polar bears, walrus, whales, seals, reindeer, foxes, hares and ice. Beyond the vast glaciers, towering mountains and rare wildlife, what makes Svalbard unique is how barren it is.
Once on board, on this first day, we were introduced to our Expedition Leader Iggy Rojas and his Team and informed about what to expect in the days to come.
Cati’s Birthday. What a treat! Spoilt at dinner that night by my fellow companions (7 ladies) and then upon returning to my cabin, I was welcomed with cake, champagne and balloons which had been set up by my Butler and Cabin Steward.
Every night, passengers receive a Daily Chronicle which offers a wealth of information regarding the weather, activities, entertainment, dining options and contacts onboard as well as the Programme for the following day.
Lectures and Information sessions are also telecast to the cabin TV. There was no lack of options for enjoying live entertainment, games, reading, listening to lectures, exercising in the Gym, relaxing in the Wellness centre or, of course, eating and drinking!
As you can imagine, I took full advantage of the Sauna.
31 July: At anchor Ny-London, Svalbard
A lone Polar Bear was spotted in the sparse vegetation along a hill top. We couldn’t move too close to the shore so as not to interfere with the bear in its natural habitat.
Whenever we ventured out in the Zodiacs, we were greeted with a hot toddy (hot chocolate with Baileys, Kahlua, Amarillo, Rum or Whisky) upon our return to the ship…….Yum!
01 August: At anchor Texas Bar, Svarlbard
Texas Bar (no-one knows why it was called Texas Bar) is nestled on the north side of Liefdefjorden, not far from Monacobreen which is a glacier in Haakon V11 Land on Spitzbergen, Svalbard.
02 August: At anchor Julibukta, Svalbard and then later in the day at Lilliehöökbreen, Svalbard.
Evidence of a whale at sea, but I could only see the water spraying out from its blowhole – sadly no breaching.
03 August: At anchor Gaffelbreen, Svalbard and later at Poolepynten, Svalbard
Today, no Zodiacs could go ashore but we spent several hours watching the antics of a young polar bear trying to “socialize” with a group of Walruses.
Despite being enemies, the walruses weren’t perturbed by the presence of this lone bear – safety in numbers undoubtedly.
04 August: A pleasant visit to the Bridge to meet the Captain and some of his Team along with the Hotel CEO who provided an insight into the amazing operations required for providing food and removing waste.
At sea: (choppy & grey) en route to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland
05 August: At sea: en route Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.
When not going ashore, there was always a great opportunity to attend the talks given by the expert Expedition Team on Flora, Fauna, Geology, History of Arctic Explorers and Local Culture.
06 August: At anchor Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.
Warmer weather! High 13°C Low 10°C
Here we were able to visit a small Inuit community comprising approx. some 460 inhabitants. It amazes me how these people willingly choose to live in such isolated and desolate locations!!
In bygone times, they would have survived by hunting narwals, seals, polar bears and muskoxen – which they still do today – but tourism is gaining importance.
07 August: Cruising Scoresby Sund Fjord, Greenland and then anchor at Bjørne Øer (Bear islands)
Glorious day!
Scoresby Sund (named after William Scoresby, an English Explore) is the largest and longest fjord system in the world. It’s a labyrinth of islands, fjords and ice.
The area is rich in Arctic wildlife, hosting musk oxen, arctic foxes and a wealth of marine life including whales, belugas, walrus and seals as well as several species of sea birds, including King Eiders, Atlantic Puffins and several species of geese.
Several Puffins were spotted today perched upon the rugged cliffs or riding the waves!
The waters of the fjords are often glassy and calm, save for the vast icebergs which calve off the vast glaciers which drain from the Greenland Ice Sheet into the fjord.
No two mountain views are the same - such is the staggering geological variation.
We ventured out in the Zodiacs passing immense icebergs and even walked out onto an icefloe - “walking on water” 😊
Sunsets at 23:45 – Stunning!
08 August – 09 August: Still cruising Scorseby Sound.
Once again out in Zodiacs to visit an abandoned village. Heaps of bones (and sadly rubbish) to be seen. I spotted an Arctic Hare. Evidently mosquitoes proved to be a problem for some – luckily not me.
10 August: At sea. En route to Reykjavik, Iceland
Pack and prepare for disembarkation.
11 August: Disembarkation Reykjavik.
Silver Wind is a small enough vessel that it could dock at the pier in the centre of Reykjavik.
I spent the day exploring the main part of Reykjavik and the Reykjanes Peninsula. Travelling on a local bus between the Keflavik airport and Reykjavík, there is a striking backdrop of churning seas and expansive lava fields.
It’s well worth exploring off the beaten path in this region to discover its hidden gems and magnificent landscape.
At the time of my visit, Iceland was holding a week-long Gay Pride celebration – hence the streets were painted the colours of the rainbow and even Stewards on Icelandair were wearing rainbow scarves.
I took in the amazing atmosphere whilst partaking some delicious street food (Fish stew served with pumpernickel bread and a glass of local beer – scrumptious! )
What an unforgettable experience I was fortunate enough to have had!
Los Angeles: Hugh
Where am I – the City of Angels!
I’ve always been a fan of LA - what’s not to love; great weather, shops, (a surprising amount of culture) and super food!
Destination – LA
Duration – Five nights (spread between West Hollywood & Venice Beach)
Suitable for – There’s certainly something here for everyone
Highlight – The collection of art on display at the LACMA (LA County Museum of Art) is astounding - and in 2024 it’s set to get even more impressive with a significant expansion project currently underway. Just next door is the Academy Museum, La Brea Tar Pits (and for car enthusiasts, the Petersen Automotive Museum - one of the world's largest automotive museums.)
A highlight of every visit of mine to LA is also the fantastic Getty Center. And this time we also made it up to Runyon Canyon and the Griffith Observatory to join the throng of locals and tourists alike, taking in the amazing views across the whole breadth of the city and getting a little early morning fresh air.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – We had a lot of great food. From elevated Mexican at Gracias Madre, fine Italian at Bacari W. 3rd to some truly great tapas at Teleferic Barcelona (Brentwood.)
One real standout for me though was Downtowns ‘Grand Central Market.’ Especially the handmade pupusas from Sarita's, well worth joining the queue.
Lost in translation moment – Venice Beach boardwalk on a sunny afternoon (any day of the week)…an immersive, uniquely Californian experience. The parade of true neighborhood characters has to be seen to be believed. It’s wonderful!
Insider tip – There are nearly 16 million people claiming Hispanic heritage in the State of California - so you won’t struggle when trying to find authentic, reasonable and delicious Central and South American cuisine. We loved El Carmen in West Hollywood for it’s very buzzy atmosphere (and $13 Margs!)
Though it’s certainly easiest to make the most of your time here with the use of a car, it is possible to get about without one. We were based in West Hollywood and Venice Beach - two locations that are easily explored on foot.
Fun fact – For a city that experiences a fair amount of derogatory comments on it’s lack of culture, it’s actually home to more museums than any city in the U.S, including New York!
PALM COVE: MICHELLE
Where we are: Palm Cove for 3 nights (BRT office getaway!)
This paradise is perfectly situated between Cairns and Port Douglas and is easily accessible from Cairns Airport, only 30mins away. With its relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere, it is the perfect beach side holiday for singles, couples, and families of all ages.
Where we stayed: Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore
With views of the golden sand beach fringed with palm trees from the balcony of our 3-bedroom beachfront suite it was G&T time!! Our room was a spacious double story apartment with a full kitchen and plenty of living space to accommodate the whole BRT family for the next 3 nights.
To Do: Palm Cove is an excellent base to further explore Tropical North Queensland with easy access to iconic attractions such as the Great Barrier Reef, Mossman Gorge and beyond to the Daintree Rainforest. Enjoy meandering along the esplanade through local boutiques, wonderful cafes, and restaurants.
Highlight: During our stay we hired a car and drove to Mossman Gorge for the day. Our 2-hour drive to the Rainforest visitor centre was truly scenic as we cruised up the coastline past several small townships. The visitor centre had ample parking and was flooded with visitors as tour buses arrived one after the other. Surprisingly though it did not take long to get our entry tickets and be on our way through the forest breathing in the fresh air, enjoying the peace and tranquillity of this natural wonder.
Fav meal/drink: Palm Cove is dotted with lovely cafes to sit out and people watch. A favourite was breakfast at Chill Café serving up amazing coffee, super fresh juices and an all-day breakfast menu!
Fun fact: Not far from Palm Cove and well worth a visit is the visit the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary, the largest butterfly flight aviary in the southern hemisphere!!
Next time: So much to see and do up here and with only 2 days we did not even scratch the surface. Next time, must sees include the Kuranda Heritage Market, open every day with stalls offering a wide range of locally produced souvenirs. A trip on the Skyrail cable car to marvel at the lush forest from above and then to catch the train back down and enjoy views of the gorgeous landscape along the way. Also kayaking out to Double Island (Ellis Beach) for a day of snorkelling, beachcombing, and picnics.
Peru: Sian
I spent 2 fabulous weeks exploring the many highlights that Peru has to offer, and it certainly lived up to my high expectations. The colour and culture is evident everywhere, and the diversity of scenery amazed me. We traveled from the Amazon jungle, to the unique and fertile Highlands of the Sacred Valley, before travelling to Lake Titicaca, the Colca Canyon & finishing in the charming desert city of Arequipa. Below are some of my highlights.
Sacred Valley of the incas
The Sacred Valley of the Incas was a highlight for me! Accompanied by amazing scenery, the region really shows off the culture and history that makes Peru so unique. We flew into Cusco, but to help acclimatise to the high altitude we went straight to the sacred valley to spend the following 2 nights at the stunning Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba. We spent a full day sightseeing which included colourful Pisac market and the village of Mismanay where Condor Travel are supporting the local community through education and work opportunities. They provided us with a delicious lunch and we donated some items to their village from Australia.
I love how authentic Peru still is; especially in the Sacred Valley where the distinct colourful clothing is very much part of their culture & not something put on just for tourists enjoyment. This is what really stood out for me - colour and culture in spades!
Insider tip - Altitude and altitude sickness is often a concern for travelers visiting Peru, but there is tablets you can take to reduce the likelihood of developing symptoms. I always recommend avoiding alcohol whilst at high altitude and take some hydralyte sachets with you to put in your water bottle every day. They’re lightweight to pack & works a treat!
machu picchu & cuzco
Unsurprisingly the Unesco listed ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu was a huge highlight for me, and exceeded my very high expectations! There is a very popular 4 day Inca trek which you can do to travel to Machu Picchu, but our group took the quicker option of the Vistadome train. Our day started early by catching the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientas, which is the main town at the base of Machu Picchu. This was a really comfortable service as we traveled alongside the river with some enjoyable scenery in full view from the expansive dome windows. The excitement grew as we then jumped on the bus from Aguas Calyantes; winding up the mountain until we reached the entrance gates to Machu Picchu. The location is really beautiful, surrounded by lush mountains, which adds to the awe-inspiring ancient Inca city. The way that it was built without the use of mortar, metal tools, or the wheel, makes Machu Picchu an engineering marvel. We spent the morning exploring with our guide before heading on to Cuzco in the afternoon, but we definitely recommend staying overnight at Aguas Calyantes & returning to Machu Picchu at sunrise to really maximise your experience.
The Peruvian government are now capping the number of daily visitors to protect the ancient site.
From Machu Picchu our final stop in the Sacred Valley was the charming city of Cuzco. Cuzco is actually South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city! The city itself is much larger than I expected, but the historic centre is lovely - with charming streets and atmospheric colonial buildings framed by the dramatic Ande’s mountains.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) - You can’t go to Peru without consuming their famous pisco sour cocktails! We did a pisco sour making course in Cuzco which was a lot of fun. Favourite meal was definitely Peruvian fish ceviche. Yum!
arequipa
Arequipa was a surprise highlight for me! The charming city centre is Unesco World Heritage listed and has beautiful baroque buildings made from sillar stone (white volcanic rock), which is what gives the city its nickname ‘White City’. Arequipa is surrounded by 3 volcanoes, the largest of which is El Misti making for a dramatic backdrop to the pretty city. I loved wandering the streets in the pedestrian-only centre, and visiting Santa Catalina Monastery. Not only the monastery a photographers dream with its brightly painted buildings, but it’s arguably one of the most fascinating religious buildings in Peru. Built in 1579, it served as a cloister for Dominican nuns from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries, and still houses a small religious community today. I loved getting lost in the brightly coloured streets that link the 3 cloisters.
Insider tip - When shopping for souvenirs; Silver is cheaper in the Sacred Valley/Cusco whilst baby alpaca is cheaper and better quality in Arequipa so you can plan your souvenir shopping accordingly. Also I found the quality & variety better at Aguas Calyentas Market compared with Pisac Market.
Fun fact - Guinea Pig is a delicacy in Peru and they eat it on special occasions such as birthdays. We did give it a try but I found it tricky to eat because there are so many bones. The high altitude provides excellent conditions for growing produce - Peru grows 3,500 varieties of potato and 55 varieties of corn which comes in all colours including yellow, purple, white, and even blue!
Africa: Hugh
Ngorongoro Crater - Tanzania
This collection of photos were shot the morning we descended to the crater floor of Ngorongoro. Up early to catch the first light of day, all disgruntled thoughts about being shaken out of bed quickly dissipated the moment we saw the lions returning home from the hunt & the clouds rolling over the surrounding mountainsides. We weren’t the only people here by any stretch of the imagination but the floor of the crater is massive and it’s very easy to get a little corner seemingly to yourself.
You really get a sense of this being the literal birthplace of humankind (just west of the Crater are the 3.6 million year old Laetoli footprints.) And no time of the day enhances this otherworldly feeling than the very early am.
Okavango Delta - Botswana
Well I could easily fill a whole blog post with pictures and memories from our time in the Delta - one of the best experiences of my life. We were fortunate enough to be based at the incomparable Kadizora Camp; situated in a remote corner of the Northern Okavango, our time here was unforgettable. At such an intimate camp, the wildlife is around every corner (and often found crossing your path on the walk back to tent after sundown.) Both experiences on the water, on a boat and also traditional Mokoro canoe, were highlights. Seeing elephants bathing at dusk, hearing hippos mating in the surrounding bushes and crocodiles slipping in to the water on your approach…amazing!
South Luangwa - Zambia
This was an unexpected delight for me - with zero expectation of what Zambia had to offer, lets just say it blew me away. We were based right on the river side, so our evenings were spent revelling in the sound of numerous (and vocal) hippos gearing up for their night as well as elephants casually walking through camp.
Relatively untouched by mass tourism, you get to revel in a sense of true wilderness here. And also have the opportunity to venture out on a walking safari…which I haven’t been able to partake in anywhere else and have been assured (despite the ever present hyenas) that its perfectly safe to do…memorable at least!
Of all of the wonderful experiences here, I must be honest and say that I didn’t love the night safari (another uncommon thing to do), from the minute we spotted the leopard. Up until that moment it was a thoroughly enjoyable and very unique way to see the wildlife as they geared up to hunt (something you can’t really do in many other parts of Africa, where come sundown it’s back to camp.) Due to the obvious excitement that comes hand in hand with witnessing this rather elusive big cat, came a certain level of (I felt) intrusive spotlight & vehicle action as the poor (injured) leopard tried to evade a pack of lions on the prowl.
Cape Town - South Africa
What a city! Of course, one of the standout experiences was a trip up Table Mountain (note to self, not the most confident when it comes to cable cars - particularly of the revolving kind!! Next time I might opt for the hiking alternative.)
A day out at Robben Island, notorious as the gaol housing Nelson Mandela during apartheid as well as a visit to the District Six Museum, which commemorates the forced movement of 60,000 inhabitants of various races in District Six - were enlightening experiences.
We stayed down on the V&A waterfront which would definitely be recommended. Such a refreshing change to be able to safely get out and explore on foot with no rogue wildlife to be concerned about (except the cute Rock Hyrax/Dassie - much like our Quokka - that inhabit Table Mountain.) We were amazed at the great value fine dining on offer here, and lovely drinking spots by the waterfront.
India: Hugh
Where am I – Rajasthan, India
We spent an extraordinary two weeks travelling around Rajasthan - from Delhi and Agra, to a tiger safari at Ranthambore. A highlight stay in a 16th-century fort surrounded by sand dunes (Khimsar), romantic Udaipur and the iconic cities of Jaipur & Jodphur. We even trekked out to the former medieval trading centre of Jaisalmer, a long day of driving there and back but so worth the experience of this golden citadel in the dunes.
We did this trip independently, with the delightful company of our private driver throughout and local guides at every stop along the way - booked with our longstanding Indian experts and collaborators; Trailblazer TBI.
Highlight - So hard to pinpoint just one, so I’ll narrow it down to three! First up would just have to be our time spent at the Taj Mahal, it’s iconic for a reason. First glimpsed by us from the Mehtab Bagh gardens, directly across the hazy Yamuna River, I was (pleasantly) surprised at how serene and otherworldly the 17th century mausoleum complex feels - despite being very familiar with it from countless photos, books and clients that I have sent there over the years. Finding a quiet spot (not as hard as you would imagine) and just taking it in was a real treat. We took sunset drinks from a shabby local rooftop bar, the Saniya Palace, which had an unforgettable view out across the rooftops of the old town towards the minarets and dome in the near distance. This sticks in my mind all these years later as an unforgettable moment - watching the sun go down and the monkeys scamper across the roofs as the call to prayer echoed all around (nb. they didn’t stock alcohol but were only too happy to dash down and find some refreshing cold beers from somewhere on request.)
Side note; almost as impressive as the Taj (and much less visited) is the so-called ‘Baby Taj’ (Itmad-ud-Daula.) Also situated on the banks of the Yamuna, just 10mins away, this mausoleum was constructed a few years before the Taj itself and is a perfect jewel box of arabesque design.
My next highlight would be the afternoon we spent rambling around the incredible Amer Fort (30mins from Jaipur.) It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site of absolute wonder that brought out the child in me - I loved the rambling ramparts and the sheer overwhelming size of the hilltop fort, perfectly complimented by ornate interiors and gorgeous courtyards and gardens. The history of this residence of the Rajput Maharajas is so intriguing, and I just could not get enough of the complicated tales of their lives (particularly the women) spent behind these walls. Speaking of walls, the Jaipur Wall which criss crosses over the surrounding Aravalli hilltops brought to mind a strong comparison to the Great Wall of China - and was yet another thing to love about our time here.
And of course, as anyone who has spoken to me about India will know, I loved every minute spent in lakeside Udaipur. From our wonderfully atmospheric hotel on the shore of the lake itself, the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel (definitely recommend a room with a view & dinner on the rooftop to make the most of it’s picturesque location.) To the mighty and impressive City Palace, which conveniently looms large just behind the Jagat Niwas. It’s also a great city for getting out on foot and strolling around the interesting streets filled with boutiques stocking local art, and surprising little temples that crop up at every corner. Nb. the ability to walk independently without being hassled is a rarity in this part of India so it was a pleasant change of pace to be able to get out and explore ourselves.
I also snuck in a couple of hotel inspections here, one of which was to the Taj Lake Palace (perhaps best known these days as the secluded lair of Octopussy, from the 1983 Bond film shot here - more on that to follow.) The moment you step off the hotels private boat as you arrive you are struck by the tranquillity (and beauty) of this gorgeous property, certainly a unique and unforgettable place to stay.
We had a lovely boat trip on Pichola Lake, stopping off at Jagmandir island (home to a 17th century palace) and one evening we dropped in at a funny little bar that was advertising Octopussy showings…we were the only patrons that night but they happily obliged, projecting the movie on to a big screen in the middle of an empty bar, while the family took their evening meal with us.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – We stuck to a veggie diet for the duration and that worked well for us; I never got over the variety of dishes (we even had a “McPaneer” - not a culinary highlight but when in… ‘Rome.’) One of my favourites meals was actually at a rather uninspiring hotel in Agra, Who would have thought?! Any opportunity we could get a meal outside or on a rooftop we of course jumped at. When staying at the atmospheric Khimsar Fort Hotel we were lucky enough to have the walls of the fort all to ourselves as the sun went down and we had a couple of “Kingfisher” beers pre dinner in one of the corner turrets.
Lost in translation moment – Well of course this happened most days! You don’t travel to India to feel like you’re back at home. We had the fabulous assistance of our driver and local guides who were always available to field any queries and iron out any kinks. Not that we encountered anything too dramatic. In fact, I’d say on the whole the entire trip was less confronting & challenging than I had perhaps prepared myself for.
My partner and I usually got mistaken for brothers which was a laugh for us. And tattoos are obviously a bit of an oddity in India as everywhere we went we were swamped by friendly photo requests. I don’t know how many families have a lovely smiling collection of pictures of us, but it would be a lot!
Insider tip – Pack a pair of old socks and have these with you on days when visiting temples and the like, as you’ll be asked to take off your shoes. You’ll need some loose change handy to pay the person looking after the shoes and most monuments etc will charge a nominal amount for a photo fee, so have that ready to go as well.
We did a safari at Ranthambore National Park, on the lookout for the elusive tiger (which we did not spot.) I’d go with reasonable expectations, particularly for those clients that have had the good fortune to visit Africa beforehand, as it’s a very different experience. We had a great time bumping around in an open topped jitney vehicle, trying to spot wildlife and on the prowl of course for a glimpse of one of the big cats. A lot of the fun was in the searching and we weren’t too disappointed not to be lucky enough this time around. An unexpected high here was the Ranthambore Fort in the middle of the NP, this made the day and was like something straight out of the pages of the Jungle Book.
Fun fact – When in Jaipur we would highly recommend an evening at the Raj Mandir movie house, the opulent art moderne theatre is a symbol of the city. We splurged on some (inexpensive) premium seats up in the royal circle; during intermission we had access to a cute little bar area. Great fun watching a Bollywood blockbuster with the huge crowd that shouts and sings along for the entirety.
Tasmania: Hugh
Just before the borders closed and the world went in to covid19 lockdown, I was fortunate enough to spend a long weekend with friends in Tasmania. Exploring Hobart is always fun; we stocked up on local goodies at the Salamanca Markets, enjoyed a gastropub lunch at Tom McHugo's and savoured some delicious dinners at Susie Luck’s (Southeast Asian with a twist) and Pancho Villa (Mexican.)
Hobart gives Melbourne a run for top brunch contender with the likes of Pigeon Hole and the quirky Machine Laundry Cafe. We also sampled a few drinks at Preachers bar, Shambles brewery, the Winston…and In The Hanging Garden; a sprawling ‘cultural’ centre with a massive open air bar at its core.
And of course, to top it off we also spent time at the one of a kind (and sometimes downright bonkers) MONA Museum of New and Old Art - reached by leisurely boat ride along the Derwent.
Three Capes Track
The real reason for our visit - with Hobart as a pleasant bookend - was to venture forth on a multi day hike through the Tasmanian wilderness, embarking on the Three Capes Track; 48 kilometres of cliff-hugging wildness in Australia's far south-east.
I just cannot recommend this experience enough! It packs a scenic punch, offers plenty of solitary moments for quiet contemplation, is a sufficient challenge to be rewarding but remains manageable enough for most levels of fitness. The trail is limited to a max of 48 walkers per day, so you get to know your travelling companions but never feel on top of one another. Oftentimes we had the path to ourselves for hours on end without coming across anyone other than the wildlife.
Even though we undertook the walk during the height of summer, sunshine and clear skies were not guaranteed. Either side of our four days they had endured some unseasonably bad rain yet fortunately (for us) the weather gods were smiling down and we had perfect conditions. Would definitely recommend for the best chance of getting similar weather that this walk be undertaken during the peak months of December through April.
The track itself is maintained to such a high degree that you just could not improve upon anything. Along the way the trail masterminds have created 40 story seats which give a fascinating insight into the diverse flora, fauna and turbulent local history.
And the cabin facilities, basecamp for each night, have been sensitively designed to leave an eco friendly footprint with maximum comfort and all of the modcons you could need; including fabulous kitchen and shared living areas that highlight the surrounding landscape, intimate bunk rooms, and even at one of the cabins a hot shower!
We chose to ‘rough it’ by doing the walk independently, with cabin accommodation at three sites along the way. This does mean carrying your own supplies; all-weather appropriate clothing, meals and snacks to survive for the four days. It’s also possible, for those that crave a few creature comforts (and don’t fancy lugging around their worldly possessions!) to do the walk with upgraded lodge accommodation. This also means that three course evening meals are prepared for you…which sometimes would have been rather nice I won’t lie!
You begin and end your Three Capes adventure at the World Heritage listed Port Arthur convict settlement. This was my first time visiting the compelling site, witness to some major historical and more recent tragic events that have helped shape the spirit of our nation. Entry is included with your track passes and I’d certainly recommend arriving early to spend some time here.
Hawaii: Sian
Where am I – Island hopping in Hawaii
Kauai – known as the garden of Eden island and for good reason. We absolutely loved our time on Kauai for its natural beauty, laid-back vibe and extremely friendly locals. A perfect place to hire a car and explore the natural wonder of Waimea Canyon – known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
Maui – One of the most popular islands in Hawaii, and for good reason. We hired a car and loved driving the road to Hana, known as one of the top scenic drives in the world. Next time we visit we’ll try and tear ourselves out of bed at 2am to watch sunrise at the top of Haleakala volcano. The historic town of Lahaina was great for gift shopping and dining. The rooftop bar/restaurant at Fleetwood’s on Front Street in Lahaiana was really enjoyable for a leisurely lunch or happy hour.
Waikiki – Busy, buzzy Waikiki was a perfect place to finish the holiday for retail therapy and fine dining restaurant options. I enjoyed staying at The Modern Honolulu which was just far enough from busy Waikiki Beach to be relaxing, but close enough that we could walk to restaurants for dinner. We visited Pearl Harbour for our history fix and shopped up a storm at Waikele factory outlets!
Highlight – A helicopter flight in Kauai
90% of the island is inaccessible by car so this was an amazing way to get a bird’s eye view of the beauty of the island and especially the famous Na Pali Coast.
Fav meal – A lot it turns out!
Our favourite fine dining experience was at Senia Restaurant in China Town Honolulu. Their Charred Cabbage signature dish was divine! Highly recommended, as well as The Pig & the Lady Vietnamese restaurant next door.
For food trucks: the fresh banana bread we picked up on the road to Hana drive that was still warm. Acai bowls were always delicious with fresh fruit. We also loved The Fresh Shave shaved ice which was refreshing and packed with delicious flavours – ‘the Chevron’ coconut & lime was my favourite.
Insider tip – There’s a 1 mile trail at Kalalau Lookout (behind the fence on the left when looking out to the ocean) which gives you amazing views down the Na Pali Coast. When sightseeing on Kauai, always head off early in the morning because the clouds start to close-in and rain falls around lunchtime onwards. It can’t be the lush beautiful island that it is without all of the rainfall it receives!!
Fun fact – No building on Kauai can be taller than a palm tree by law.
Greece: Hugh
Where am I – Greek Island hopping!
Starting off with a few nights in surprisingly captivating Athens. True that it’s suffered from the effects of economic and social trouble over the last few years. But we found the city lively, diverse and literally jam packed with fascinating sights around every corner. Not to mention the food!!
We then headed south to Santorini (just as jaw dropping as the photos imply!) Charming Paros. And buzzing Mykonos. All three islands offered something completely different and only gave us more of a desire to head back as soon as possible to check out some of the others!
Destination – Greece
Duration – Two weeks
Suitable for – Absolutely anyone & everyone. Particularly great for couples / honeymooners.
Highlight – Paros all the way. Such a laidback alternative to its bigger, busier neighbours. By day we used the local bus to get around and visit ancient inland villages and out of the way beaches. And at night we ventured out on foot to stroll around the old towns of Parikia and Naoussa; bursting with cute wine bars, traditional Greek restaurants and boutique stores. Atmosphere plus plus plus.
Recommendation (fav meal / drink) – Must line up and try the Kalamata Pita from Kostas (Athens.) Cheap, cheerful and delish! For a sunset dinner in Santorini try any restaurant in Imerovigli (the best spot on the island to see the sun go down.) We had a very special dinner at La Maison there. And Lola Bar in Mykonos was a lot of fun for a good night out (half the fun was finding it!)
Lost in translation moment – Trying to get on and off the Greek ferries. It is manic and disorganized chaos and you can only give up and go with the flow! Essential to have someone meet you at the pier rather than wait forever and a day for a taxi. A lesson learned the hard way.
Insider tip – If you feel up for a wander, do try the Caldera hike from Fira to Oia (2-5hrs.) A rewarding experience with some incomparable views of the island. Definitely best accomplished first thing in the morning. Grab a well earned bite to eat when you get to Oia, then take the bus back!
Just off the coast of Mykonos, renowned for its nonstop party vibe, you’ll find the island of Delos. This sprawling archaeological site is the mythological birthplace of Apollo and offers hours and hours of easy (and fascinating) rambling opportunities amongst the ruins. The famous lions on display are replicas, head inside the museum to see the originals (from 600BCE.)
Fun fact –Inhabited for over 4,000 years, Athens has operated under every known form of government; monarchy, democracy, socialism, capitalism, even communism.
