Where am I – in the kingdom of Jordan, stopping by for a few days on the way to Egypt.
Highlight - Petra of course, without hesitation! Justifiably one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, our time spent rambling around the ancient rock-cut city was a life highlight.
Our first taste of the country was complete immersion in the martian-like environment of Wadi Rum. We spent one night here in a dome tent under the stars; venturing out with a local Bedouin guide (a very jovial father and his young son) to see 12,000yr old rock carvings and experience the sun set across the vast and virtually silent desert landscape. It's a drive of around 4hrs to get out there from Amman and for most of this journey the landscape is fairly barren, rubbish strewn, and I would say a little underwhelming. It's in the final hour that you descend into the otherworldly landscape and all of a sudden, you're surrounded by pristine sand and honey-coloured rocks. I was surprised at the number and proximity of near identical camps dotted throughout the landscape, and they all do appear rather similar - a cluster of tents, domes and a central hub for the communal evening meal. Though once settled in you'll be comfortably oblivious to most of the outside world and certainly unaware of any neighbours.
They've filmed numerous movies out here including Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars…and of course The Martian!
We chose to stay at one of the original camps, Sun City. Our hosts were incredibly generous and the Zarb Dinner (a delicious mix of meat, vegetables and rice slow cooked for 6hrs in a deep charcoal pit) was a lovely highlight experience.
Petra town was a charming contrast, and our accommodation at the Movenpick absolutely perfect - it's situated just across the road from the main entry as well as the rather excellent Petra Museum. We visited here after exploring the site (too excited to wait) but in hindsight, would recommend popping in first for an hour or two to give some valued context to what you're about to see and the forgotten people that once inhabited this region. Not only was the Movenpick well located but the staff were also incredibly friendly and welcoming, our upgraded junior suite spacious and lovely - and a delicious rooftop dinner too enormous to finish (despite our very best efforts.)
To do some level of justice to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Petra you'll ideally have the best part of two full days to roam around at leisure. There are numerous trails to take, and most (ourselves included) will start with the aptly titled “Main Trail” - which starts at the Visitor Centre and winds its way through a narrow gorge, a 45min walk with anticipation building along the way before you reach the iconic Treasury. Just behind the sandstone carved facade of the Treasury, the valley opens out to reveal a temple complex ruin, ancient colonnaded street, tombs dotted around high up in the surrounding hills and even a Nabataean theatre carved out of solid rock and dating back to the early first century AD.
We also did the “Al Dayr Trail”, which is a slightly more challenging undertaking but super rewarding with the Monastery the highlight at the summit of 800 (or so) steps.
In the evening we returned to the Treasury via the Main Trail, for ‘Petra by Night.’ This time we had the whole complex virtually to ourselves, such a magical experience wandering down the candlelit gorge with a starry night above - by itself this was worth the price of admission! With the light show cast on to the Treasury facade an added bonus.
We also spent time in the capital Amman where we stayed at the well lovely Intercontinental, walking distance to the centre of town for the adventurous (lots of hills, heat and chaotic traffic - so for most people, a taxi would be recommended here!) Hashem Restaurant is a must visit when in downtown; authentic no frills Jordanian snack food and service without a smile. But delish food at a bargain price and quite the experience. We loved trying Knafeh (traditional Arabic dessert) and would recommend Habibah Sweets to sample this yummy delicacy.
There are two major ancient sights to see when in town. The 2nd century Roman Theatre and the sprawling hilltop Citadel complex - considered to be among the world's oldest continuously inhabited places (suggest heading here at sunset to avoid the heat of the day!)
Whether you include a trip to Jordan before or after visiting Egypt I don't think makes a tremendous difference. We started with Jordan as it worked better for our flight itinerary, and I personally loved getting our first taste of the ancient Middle East here. Perhaps it made the quiet charms of Wadi Rum and Petra stand out from the brasher appeal of the Pyramids et al. Though I'd have no real hesitation doing the journey in reverse, your only priority - if you can - should be to try and experience both!
