Just before the borders closed and the world went in to covid19 lockdown, I was fortunate enough to spend a long weekend with friends in Tasmania. Exploring Hobart is always fun; we stocked up on local goodies at the Salamanca Markets, enjoyed a gastropub lunch at Tom McHugo's and savoured some delicious dinners at Susie Luck’s (Southeast Asian with a twist) and Pancho Villa (Mexican.)
Hobart gives Melbourne a run for top brunch contender with the likes of Pigeon Hole and the quirky Machine Laundry Cafe. We also sampled a few drinks at Preachers bar, Shambles brewery, the Winston…and In The Hanging Garden; a sprawling ‘cultural’ centre with a massive open air bar at its core.
And of course, to top it off we also spent time at the one of a kind (and sometimes downright bonkers) MONA Museum of New and Old Art - reached by leisurely boat ride along the Derwent.
Three Capes Track
The real reason for our visit - with Hobart as a pleasant bookend - was to venture forth on a multi day hike through the Tasmanian wilderness, embarking on the Three Capes Track; 48 kilometres of cliff-hugging wildness in Australia's far south-east.
I just cannot recommend this experience enough! It packs a scenic punch, offers plenty of solitary moments for quiet contemplation, is a sufficient challenge to be rewarding but remains manageable enough for most levels of fitness. The trail is limited to a max of 48 walkers per day, so you get to know your travelling companions but never feel on top of one another. Oftentimes we had the path to ourselves for hours on end without coming across anyone other than the wildlife.
Even though we undertook the walk during the height of summer, sunshine and clear skies were not guaranteed. Either side of our four days they had endured some unseasonably bad rain yet fortunately (for us) the weather gods were smiling down and we had perfect conditions. Would definitely recommend for the best chance of getting similar weather that this walk be undertaken during the peak months of December through April.
The track itself is maintained to such a high degree that you just could not improve upon anything. Along the way the trail masterminds have created 40 story seats which give a fascinating insight into the diverse flora, fauna and turbulent local history.
And the cabin facilities, basecamp for each night, have been sensitively designed to leave an eco friendly footprint with maximum comfort and all of the modcons you could need; including fabulous kitchen and shared living areas that highlight the surrounding landscape, intimate bunk rooms, and even at one of the cabins a hot shower!
We chose to ‘rough it’ by doing the walk independently, with cabin accommodation at three sites along the way. This does mean carrying your own supplies; all-weather appropriate clothing, meals and snacks to survive for the four days. It’s also possible, for those that crave a few creature comforts (and don’t fancy lugging around their worldly possessions!) to do the walk with upgraded lodge accommodation. This also means that three course evening meals are prepared for you…which sometimes would have been rather nice I won’t lie!
You begin and end your Three Capes adventure at the World Heritage listed Port Arthur convict settlement. This was my first time visiting the compelling site, witness to some major historical and more recent tragic events that have helped shape the spirit of our nation. Entry is included with your track passes and I’d certainly recommend arriving early to spend some time here.
