BUDAPEST CITY STAY
I spent a couple of days before I joined the cruise exploring this fabulous city. It’s easily and safely traversed on foot, bike or on one of the oldest metro systems in the world. And there is a lot to take in! From it’s humble 4th century origins as an area contested by various tribes on the banks of the Danube to it’s more recent (and undeniably turbulent) 20th century history. It now sits proudly - Buda and Pest united - to form this magnificent ‘Paris of the East.’
I particularly enjoyed walking along the banks of the river where you will come across the ‘Shoes on the Danube Bank’ memorial, a particularly poignant reflection on a tragic moment of the cities Jewish past. It is sited near to the gothic splendour of the Hungarian parliament building, perhaps one of the most photogenic buildings in the world!
As horrifying as it sounds, the ‘House of Terror’ museum was a real highlight for me. The thoughtful and sometimes harrowing exhibits that deal with the fascist and communist past of Budapest are located within a building which at one time housed the secret service of both those regimes. It is also a very beautiful memorial to the people who were incarcerated here.
To get some perspective (and a spot of fresh air) I’d recommend a hike up Gellért Hill, which dominates the city skyline and offers a welcome green respite from the bustle of the city streets.
And a visit to Budapest absolutely must take in one of the many bath complexes, elaborate temples to health and wellbeing that straddle a patchwork of almost 125 thermal springs. I spent time at the sublime Szechenyi Thermal Baths, the largest medicinal bath in Europe and a meeting spot for what felt like half the city!!
RIVER CRUISE BUDAPEST TO MUNICH
The Scenic Pearl was docked at an enviable position - right across the river from the parliament building. An absolutely unbeatable spot for our first evening, spent lapping up the view over a leisurely and extravagant dinner, the first of many!
The ship boasts a modern, chic fitout (grey palette, lots of stainless steel and glass.) With only 159 passengers onboard (and a staff of 59) it never feels crowded and on day one the service is attentive and personalised without being over the top. Most time is spent divided between the sundeck, the crystal dining room and of course the panorama lounge (where we worked our way through all of the cocktails on the extensive menu.) Not much time was spent in the suite itself though it was spacious enough to while away a few hours on the private outdoor balcony - summoning snacks and drinks to the room courtesy of our ever courteous butler.
Cruise highlights for me were the charming town of Bratislava, capital of Slovakia. A memorable day spent at Cesky Krumlov. And of course the extended time we were able to spend in glorious Vienna.
We got to explore the little town of Szentendre, a short distance from Budapest and home of a vibrant artist colony of the last century. Known for its colourful homes and winding cobbled streets it was particularly lovely to get to experience a slice of small town Hungary.
Wending our way along the mighty Danube we came to Vienna the following day. Here we made full use of the ships full complement of (electric) bikes to zip around the city independently. In the evening we were treated to our own private recital of classical music, featuring the likes of Strauss and Mozart, at the fabulously ott Palais Liechtenstein.
One of the finest mornings we spent docked at Durnstein, tucked away at a bend of the river this picturesque village is watched over by the ruins of a 12th century castle. Supposedly this is where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned - found by the wandering minstrel Blondel who travelled from castle to castle in the region, singing up to castle walls in search of the King. The walk up the hill to the ruins was moderately strenuous but definitely best enjoyed first thing before the village comes alive and the streets become crowded.
We enjoyed a fantastic summers day in UNESCO listed Český Krumlov, an almost unbelievably pretty medieval town dominated by the enormous castle complex and made up of a labyrinthine old town which is bound on all sides by a horseshoe bend of the Vltava river. Lots pf atmospheric local restaurants and good old fashioned Czech pubs can be found here, with everyone spilling out on to footpaths and making the most of the lazy river and the European summer sunshine.
We rounded out the week at the university town of Passau which known for its baroque architecture. And yet another immaculately preserved old town, Regensburg. Our visit here happened to coincide with a jazz festival, so the streets were alive with merriment and activity. The perfect end to a balanced week of leisure, exploration and indulgence.
