Istanbul: Hugh
Where am I – at the meeting point of Europe and Asia, the wonderous city of Istanbul!
We spent 4-nights in one of the oldest and most historic neighbourhoods, Sirkeci - in the shadow of the Topkapi Palace and moments from both the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Perfect location to get our fix of all the major sights and easily accessible to the rest of the sprawling city by tram, ferry or on foot.
On our return back through Istanbul we spent 1 more night, this time at the Shangri-La; right on the Bosphorus.
Day 1 - We intended this to be a bit of a gentle recovery day after the flight to get there…(but excitement got the better of us)…and we ended up walking the length and breadth of not just our Sirkeci surrounds but also the new waterfront Galataport district (much like Melbourne’s Southbank…but rather more glamorous), and the hilly Karaköy area which is home to the best bars, restaurants and shops.
We did break up some of this racing around with an invigorating bathing experience at the Gedikpasa Hamam - which was completed in 1475 (!) and has the most amazing Ottoman era vaulted interiors, much more like a temple than a bathhouse.
Day 2 - I’m so pleased we chose to join a small group food tour (for your trip to Istanbul, you can definitely ask us to add in the same experience - not to be missed!) This was a great opportunity to cross the Bosphorus by ferry to the bohemian Kadıköy neighbourhood, where we ended up staying on after to wander the street art filled back streets and sample a few wines in the lush green courtyard of the wine bar Viktor Levi Şarap Evi.
It also gave us the chance to try out some more unusual local cuisine like midye dolma (stuffed mussels) Kelle Paça (sheep’s head soup) and Kokoreç (goat instestines wrapped around a skewer of sweetbreads and roasted over a charcoal fire.) It wasn’t all weird and wonderful though, there were plenty of dips, breads and baklava along the way as well! Our only regret that we didn’t follow the advice and had breakfast before joining our group for the day out…
Day 3 - Yet another big day out, this one filled with the heavy hitters of Topkapi, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, as well as the Grand Bazaar. A big day, but conveniently all centered around the same old town location. Once again, really pleased we joined a small group to get the most out of our time here. Shout out to the most engaging guide, Oguzhan, who filled the day with engaging stories and a wealth of historical context.
A few days later we were chatting with some fellow travellers who remarked that the Hagia Sophia had been a disappointment - and I can’t help but think they would have had a different opinion if they saw it through the eyes of someone who could point out all the easily overlooked carvings, Viking graffiti and hard to spot 1,400 year old mosaics. For me it was a real highlight. The Topkapi Palace was also incredible - home to the Ottoman Sultans, their concubines and eunuch slaves who were all shut away in the imperial harem. We spents hours here exploring the rooms packed with treasure, holy relics and a whole lot of intrigue and mystery.
Day 4 - One of the best things we did today was the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art - a giant contemporary space at Galataport, home to some really intriguing pieces, excellent photography and a temporary exhibition space that when we visited featured the fascinating life and works of Semiha Berksoy. We also continued a little further along the Bosphorus to the Dolmabahce Palace which is where the Ottoman imperial family moved to once they had vacated Topkapi in the 19th century. Considerably more European in style, yet still home to a sprawling harem complex.
We also spent time at the Suleymaniye Mosque, situated on top of one of the seven hills of the city (all featuring a Mosque or Palace) - fantastic city views from here, and a much calmer vibe than the more regularly visited Blue Mosque. And first thing (before the crowds descended) we checked out the haunting underground space of the Basilica Cistern.
We stayed at the Neorion Hotel, which we have used and recommended for years (Sian stayed here as well a few years back, and we even had a few of our lovely Black Rock Travel clients in residence at the same time as us!) Location couldn’t be better and the breakfast was delish - all fresh olives, local cheeses and amazing pastries. They have a basement pool and hamam, as well as a rooftop bar and restaurant with a killer view out across the Bosphorus and Golden Horn.
On our return through Istanbul we spent the night at the sublime Shangri-La; super opulent (and THE most incredible buffet breakfast spread you could ever imagine!) Just outside they have a public ferry service across to Kadıköy which would have been very convenient if we’d felt like venturing back there to that vibrant neighbourhood. The hotel was also right next to the Tomb of Hayreddin Barbarossa - the famous pirate who became official Grand Admiral of the Ottoman Navy and a hero to the Turkish people.
Some of our favourite places to eat and drink -
Populist Brew Galataport (Bosphorus facing modern Brew House in Galataport, inside the historic Bomonti Brewery.)
Bag Pera (really charming wine bar, just off the very touristy Istiklal Caddesi.)
Karaköy Köşkeroğlu Tophane (the best baklava around, a family business that dates back to the 40s.)
Galata Fish Mekan (there are many places around the riverside which sell fish wraps, this has to be the best and most authentic! No frills at all, but possibly the yummiest thing we’ve eaten in Istanbul so far!)